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hi I'm Steve from the techni webstore
today I'm going to talk about changing
motion sensors and give me some tips on
how to to improve the way your security
system I'll be right by putting new
motion sensors in if your security
system is five years or older you may
consider now changing the motion sensors
the motion sensor is important very
important part of your security systems
operation by detecting motion as
detectives get old a number of things to
happen the detectors can be prone to
false lining or the detector may be
prone to insensitivity which means it
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actually doesn't detect correctly it's a
simple job that most DIYs can undertake
themselves at the technolog store we
have a full range of motion sensors and
we can assist you if you need to change
your major and center to replace your
motion sensors first you'll have to
remove the old sensor from the wall and
disconnect the wiring most tech does
have a clip arrangement which unclips
the cover you may take a little time to
actually find out exactly how to unclip
the cover on your old detector remove
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the cover from the detector to get
inside the detector which will expose
the internal wiring and the mounting
screws which connect the detector to the
wall it's also a good idea to actually
turn off the power to the control panel
and disconnect the backup battery if you
know where that's located some systems
have a fuse on the system and but
shorting the wires getting the detector
may cause that fuse to blow work out now
how to actually remove the circuit board
most circuit boards are removable so you
can either access the wiring
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start by disconnecting the screws from
the circuit board but taking a note of
where the wires are connected and the
color combination if need to be take a
pen and paper and write down this
combination and symbols on the actual
terminal strips on the oil detector
now the older tetra is removed you can
now prepare the new detector
installation let's have a look some of
the detail actually on the wiring on the
actual detector on this particular
Tector we have a black wire which is the
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negative terminal we have the red wire
which is the positive terminal these
supply the tile volts low voltage to
power the detector and put video new
detector we must make sure that we put
the the plus and my wires are back in
the terminals correctly over the
detector will not function we also have
a terminal here might normally closed
and I'm turning the marked common or see
so you'll see the blue wire is actually
into the normally closed socket and
there's also here a device underlined
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device or a resistor which sits across
between the common and the tamper on
this particular detector the white wire
is actually connect the tamper so this
is a four wire arrangement so we have a
pair of wires bring the power into the
detector and we have a pair of wires
taking the signal away from the detector
your detector may actually have six
wires going to it may have three
different pairs in a six wire device
you'll have one pair of wires the red
and black typically for the 12 volts
low-voltage maybe the blue and white
pair will be doing the alarm signal back
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to the alarm panel and then the third
pair which could be in this case here
it's actually a green and yellow pair
where it could be an orange orange and
green different combinations of
different cables this would typically be
the tamper circuit that's what's
important to actually know down the
actual terminals and what wires are
connected the terminals before totally
disconnecting so when you reconnect your
detector you actually put the wires back
in the right terminals the new detector
we're installing to replace a roll
detector we're using a Bosch a blue line
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quad detector now the terminal strip is
a different design the terminal strip is
actually removable from the detector to
make installation much easier also the
terminal marking may be different from
the detector that you removed but we'll
just try and go for and explain the some
of the terminals and what their purpose
are why this one up on the bench just to
make it easier to see how it actually
goes
but together also removing the
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end-of-line device other end-of-line
resistor because that will be needed to
be reused in the new detector
placing the wires through the hole that
we've made in the back of the case to
accept the cable in the new detector now
look at this particular terminal block
here we have it starts with T for tamper
the negative power the positive power
the normally closed alarm loop the
second leg of the normally closed alarm
loop has a data terminal here for other
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devices which we're not interested in
today it has the the final tamper one on
the end so how we're going to connect
this up is we're going to connect their
end line device is going to sit between
the tamper on the end here and the first
normally the first normally closed
because this why for this one was a
four-wire design
so we've now fitted our underline device
that's in between the tamper and the
normally closed
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first of all we'll put in is the
negative one negative power followed by
a red or positive wire if the ends of
the wires are actually a bit dog head or
sticking out twist them together so they
go in the last thing we want is small
pieces of copper wire causing a problem
on the terminal strip the next wire will
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go into the terminal marked
normally-closed which is the other side
of the alarm contacts and our final wire
will go into the tamper or tt at the end
here which will complete the circuit so
there's a raised over here replaces what
we had on the old detector well so what
we've done here now with this new wiring
it's mimicking exactly how the old
detector was connected and will give us
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the same operation really fit the
detector in situation we will do that we
showed you the wiring on the bench just
made easy now we're actually going to do
it actually out on the wall where the
detects is actually mounted remember
we've pre-drill the hole the back of the
detector to accept the coding
by Detective because the terminal block
is actually removable
it actually makes quite easy for us to
reconnect the wiring we've already pre
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fitted the and align the resistor into
the appropriate tunnels on block again
just remembering vendor lies a bit dull
here to give a bit of a twister to get
rid of any DAGs or anything that may be
on the code sometimes it's necessary to
back the screws off on the terminal
blocks otherwise actually sliding nice
and hot nice in home
we go without connector wires back after
you attacker on this particular one we
can snap the snap a tunnel block back
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into place into the mounting position
fitting the excess cabling back into the
wall cavity you see then you screw the
detector the place of the mounting
screws the manuscript may actually end
up in a different position from the
original detector that's not problem
just makes a new hardware as necessary
showing amount to detect a nice and firm
you don't want the detective water on
the in the corner there that will cause
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false alarms I don't know now you riff
refit the in front of the detector case
moving in the right position you'll
notice once the detective found in
detectable power up and it'll start
actually doing it so start doing it walk
test my toe to fight off a little
tactical sit in that mode for a minute
of the side install it's important to
walk test it and actually make sure it
works properly to means you move around
the room walk around each corner rooms
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make sure the detector is detecting it's
also important to go to the keypad and
check to make sure that zone is actually
behaving normally keep that as well now
you can see that your rear detector has
actually sealed and it's going into edit
alarm on the keypad this is normal
operation after you've taken the time to
research and pick the correct sensors
for your home they'll give you many many
years reliable operation for more
information about alarm systems and
other things from techno works visit our
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website techni works.com au thank you
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