Perfumery Basics: How to get started - What you will need

Perfumery Basics: How to get started - What you will need

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00:11
[Music] what's up guys so today is the video for the basic perfumer that doesn't know where to get started you know you want to start creating your perfumes at home but you not quite understand where to start where should I buy my materials what kind of materials what kind of things do I need to get all this started because sure you can just go out and buy some essential oils and just start dropping things together and do it yourself but
00:41
your you want to do it the right way so in this video we're gonna tackle all the basic things and all the basic steps that be the the DIY beginner is gonna want to go with in order to create their own perfumes at home we're gonna discuss equipment we're gonna discuss storage of your materials whether it fits in if you have a dedicated room like a perfumer Zorgon or maybe if you have storage cabinets we're going to discuss the materials now in this video I'm actually
01:12
going to pick out some like starter materials now there's hundreds and hundreds of aroma chemicals and essential oils and things that you can buy and that's probably the one thing that most people get confused on when they first start out because they don't know what to buy there's just so many they don't know what they do some of the names are confusing so I hand selected a couple of things from each category like categories of citruses maybe categories of woods something from spices something from ozone ik so I break it down and
01:43
kind of handpick all some of the basic materials that you would need to get you started without having to dive deep into getting all these different little niche aroma chemicals to make all these different things these are gonna be some other things that I pick out that I personally love to use so instead of making your own rose Accord which can consist of maybe five to ten aroma chemicals I'm gonna pick out one single blend that you can purchase from these big fragrance companies like geodon or iff or sim rise so I'll pick all these different things
02:13
that gets you started so you can start creating your own blends at home and then you can take it to the next level from there and then the last thing we're going to discuss is where to buy all this stuff where do you buy your equipment where would you buy a roma chemicals here in the United States or anywhere in the world so I have a couple go to places that I personally love to buy from and I buy from every single week I'm constantly spending spending spending money on this this is an expensive hobby just just an FYI to get you in the know right now you're gonna
02:45
start this now and think I got to spend all this money on all this things and then you'll realize the next week you're gonna want more ingredients you're gonna want to try new things and it's just you're gonna bye bye bye so I hand-picked three different websites that I personally love going to trustworthy sources great materials and yeah so without further ado let's get started so now let's take a look at some of these materials that I picked out for the the basic beginner first timer if you will perfumer for somebody that wants to
03:20
start creating perfumes at home so I've hand selected a whole bunch of things out of my arsenal and quite honestly this is only like a small percentage of my stuff but I have everything grouped by categories which I think that'll get you started off on the right foot as far as but you would probably enjoy using or experimenting with without diving too deep into specific aroma chemicals so the first group I have here is what I call the must-haves like these are the
03:52
ingredients that every single perfumer or DIY pro femur is going to want in their arsenal it's used in almost every modern-day perfume and you're definitely gonna want it so the first thing we've got is Galax allied now Galax allied is a it's a musk and I know a lot of people get turned off by muss or like no I don't like musky my perfumes but Galax allied is a very forgiving clean musk it has a very low odor threshold so it's very hard to detect you can easily
04:23
overdose this in your perfume and be okay so it's a very safe clean Musk so if you had to go with just a one Musk out of your entire arsenal start with this one so then the next one I think everybody should have always ISO e super ISO e supers and every perfume nowadays it's more of a soft velvety woody scent but again it's a very low odor threshold you can easily overdose this in your perfume your perfume and not even really smell
04:53
it it's they're more of kind of like a blender I would consider this more of a functional kind of ingredient than more of a scented ingredient now on the flip side you've got Hettie own Hetty own is much like ISO II super but instead of woody this is more of like a white narcotic floral kind of like jasmine if you will so again very very light scented a lot of women's perfumes nowadays can go easily up to 20% of their perfume concentrate with Jeff
05:23
this ingredient alone really overused in the perfumery industry so this is a definite must-have and then the last one of the must-haves is your basic old lintel all and lintel all is a top note floral it's very soft it's very delicate and it actually brings a lot of lift into your fragrances so Linna law is actually an aroma chemical that's found in a lot of florals so this is definitely a must-have
05:54
now the next category again I'm gonna go back into a musk category say Galax allied wasn't quite your thing it's too clean and you're like I would like a musky scent if I had to choose one musk for the rest of my life it would be exalted I'd total from fermanich this is it's still a semi clean musk it's not as clean as Galax allied but now it's getting into the more darker sensual kind of musk so if you had to have two musk and that was it I would choose
06:26
Galax alight in this one so at least with having both you have options depending on what perfume you're going to go with if you want to clean or perfume and go with Galax alight if you want something a little bit more deeper a little bit more sensual and musky ER axalta light total now your next category is gonna be your woods category and these are all poor you know pretty much bass notes so notes can be all over the place and perfumes and it's very very subjective as far as preference so I've hand-picked a couple things that I
06:57
think fits into every kind of genre of perfume so for the first one you're definitely gonna go you're gonna want to get some cedar wood essential oil cedar wood essential oil is found in so many colognes and perfumes I mean if it's a wood I'd say probably 25% of perfumes out there that has a wood it's probably cedar what it's it's used that much now there's different kinds of cedar woods out there this like you can get cedar wood from Virginia from Texas from all different you know countries I
07:28
particularly got the one from Texas because it's just the basic generic cedar wood now the next one is black agar or black agar sometimes also known as ode now this one in particular dude is very very very expensive so this one that I chose is actually made by Javad on and it's black agar give KO very affordable it's their
07:57
synthetic reconstitution of what an agar or it would smell like so if you can't afford a real food oil which is probably like hundreds and hundreds of dollars just for a small little vial this is your next best bet like a small bottle like this shouldn't cost you more than fifteen twenty dollars so the next one is going to be somewhere and the lines of your sandal woods sandal woods are very popular in women's perfume as the wood of choice so sandalwood again is a
08:30
very very expensive essential oil to obtain it's probably way too expensive for the beginner or for somebody starting off so I particularly chose there's an aroma chemical called sandal or or sometimes you can get one called sandela and this again is a aroma chemical kind of reproduction of what sandalwood oil would smell like saves you ton of money it's I wouldn't say it's as good as the real thing but when it's blended in a perfume most people
09:00
wouldn't know the difference see the next one would be patchouli patchouli oil is actually very obtainable it's very cheap there's different kinds of patchouli most people get turned off by patchouli though because it's very dirty it's very earthy so if I were to choose a specific patchouli Firmenich makes one called clear wood and clear wood is the cleaned up version of patchouli it's it's almost like the nice dry grassy woody patchouli without that dirt and
09:32
skank in it so if you were to get a patchouli oil and didn't know which one to get start with clear wood first because it's very clean and very easy to work with and then the last two I want to talk about in the woods category technically necessarily woods but they kind of fall in that category and these are probably nice to have you don't have to have them but juniper berry oil even though it comes from a tree it's a it's not necessarily a wood this is more of a top note it's kind of like a sweeter wood so
10:02
just imagine the leaves and the berries of a juniper berry tree excellent excellent excellent top note and then the last one is you're gonna need some sort of fir pine needle kind of green scent so that Christmassy scent so if you can't get a hold of any sort of pine essential oil your next bet is probably gonna be some Cypress oil this particular one is a pure natural essential oil from Spain very affordable little bottle like this probably 1012
10:33
dollars so the next category we're gonna dive into now is your aldehydes now all the hides are tricky to work with they have to be heavily diluted because you can buy a small bottle like say a small little $5 bottle like this and this'll last you a long time because you're going to dilute it into larger bottles like this - usually ten percent so the four aldehydes that I would probably start off with is your c12 ma aldehyde
11:07
this is probably the most common aldehyde out there it's it's really old it's been in perfumery for so many decades now this aldehyde is as with any aldehyde it's very clean uplifting air well not aromatic but just very it creates this head space for your perfume where just gives everything that's lift and that's what an aldehyde does but every other hide has a different facet or a different scent kind of profile to it the c12 MNA is more of your dry amber
11:37
kind of aldehyde so it does give it that openness that lifts but it's a little bit on the dry warm amber side it's good to have in your perfume if you're creating well like an Amber based perfume the next one would be your c12 lauric this is strong strong strong I have this diluted down to five percent so this aldehyde is your basic go-to if you want that clean soapy dried linens kind of aldehyde scent this is a great great
12:10
clean aldehyde to have just dilute the heck out of it because it's strong so now the next one we're going to talk about is aldehyde c10 decay now and now this one this is more of like the zesty orange peel aldehyde so this usually is my first go-to choice of aldehyde if I'm creating like a citrus summer scent fragrance and I need something to give the top notes some lift this one is so strong though I have it diluted down to 2% and I'm probably gonna dilute it down
12:42
to 1% because one drop of this is still super strong to my blends so if you want that zesty kind of bright uplifting kind of aldehyde your c10 the kennel is probably a good choice to start with last but not least this aldehyde technically is not an aldehyde it's they call it a so-called aldehyde because the people that invented this actually miss marketed it as an aldehyde because it's older strength is so strong it reacts like an aldehyde but its chemical compounds technically it's not an
13:13
aldehyde and that is aldehyde so called strawberry c16 you don't need this one but it depends on the nature of what you're gonna be creating in your perfumes in the future I would say this is a great one for more feminine perfumes a lot of feminine perfumes usually are on the sweeter on the fruitier side so if you want some sort of all the hide then mimic that and give that top-end some lift your see 16 strawberry aldehyde is usually a good good choice so now the
13:43
next category is a very slim category because there's just so many to talk about but that's your fruity category so what I've selected for fruits that are good starting points is some sort of Apple Accord you're gonna want like a vent this is known for having a great apple opening so as a Oh what is that nautical voyage has a great Apple Apple opening so if I were to choose a single aroma chemical that mimics an apple note the best that would
14:14
be called man's innate and this one it's a it's a very sweet Apple it's very generic it's not red it's not green apple it's just a generic apple it actually has a almost kind of like a kind of like apple cider scent - it's sweet and but has a cider scent but it blends so well for a top note the next one would be more of on the feminine side so if you like nectarines apricots and peaches of course you can try and
14:46
find some sort of oil that does that but certain fruits don't produce essential oil so you're you're kind of stuck with half - getting some sort of aroma chemical to do it and my choice for that would be neck drill from Javad on and again this one is a very generic kind of apricot nectarine peach kind of scent excellent top note kind of goes from top to middle notes so this has got some good longevity excellent for women's perfumes which tend to be sometimes a lot of women's perfumes love to have that peachy opening this is a good thing
15:17
to have and the last one in the fruit category I think everybody should have is some sort of pineapple accord now pineapple itself you there is no pineapple essential oil you can't really get anything like that they have to be you know remade through aroma chemicals that's the only way about it and instead of listing all the 10 ingredients of aroma chemicals that makes up of a pineapple I hand selected just one pre blended accord that's actually made by
15:48
creating perfume calm and she just calls it the pineapple accord and it smells wonderful it's thick juicy robust it's perfect that's perfect for that treat event is kind of pineapple opening and it's very affordable like this little 15 ml bottle I think was ten bucks or something like that and this is gonna last a heck of a long time okay so now that brings us to the floral category and the floral category is Brod and there's so many different types
16:20
of florals but I've hand-picked just a few that are more commonly and widely used in the purr and perfumery so obviously the first one is going to be rose rose is used a lot in women's perfumes not so much men's but if it's done right it's done awesome but Rose if you try to build your own rose Accord you you're gonna have to build it with so many aroma chemicals again you've got to use citronella geranium peña that's McComb bata you know all these things and instead of trying to get you all these different things you can just go
16:51
out and buy one from Javad n called rose gym co 217 and again this is their concept this is the recreation it smells so good of a generic rose and it smells really lifelike to me to be honest with you it's not necessarily like a spicy rose it's not a clean rose it's not a red rose it's not a white water rose it's just your average generic rose a chord and it's dirt cheap and it works wonders I think everybody should have it
17:20
as a first timer the next one is your Jasmine's jasmine essential oil is ungodly expensive I mean just a small little vial like this probably a hundred bucks and it won't last you long so you have to rely on aroma chemicals so you're gonna notice a theme with all these things that I'm showing you here is these big houses like iff vivid on Sunrise they make synthetic remakes of what would be an essential oil so these big
17:54
houses like sim rised vivid on iff they remake their own versions of these really expensive oils through aroma chemicals and for jasmine I've chose jasmit own from Chiba Don now there's different ones out there and like Firmenich makes jasmine specialty they're both Jasmine's and they both smell wonderful but they're just kind of just a little bit different I carry both
18:24
because one is a more sweeter the other one is more delicate if I were to choose one I mean they're both pretty much the same price - I would say jazz mattone is probably a good first starter if you can afford to get both on your first you know batch of things you're gonna buy you know grab both and see which one you like but jasmine tone is actually a really good one which now brings me to the iris the Auris roots the violet that again you
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can try and do essential oils concretes absolutes super expensive so with an aroma a single enrollment chemical if you want it to you know get by with a sort of powdery iris note without you know overwhelming yourself you could either choose I own own alpha which is super powdery and very iris like I mean this alone you put it in a blend a lot of people wouldn't be able to tell the difference or you can get the old trusty
19:26
methyl Ino gamma both are very very similar if you smell them side by side most people couldn't tell the difference so I would say just get whichever one you think is cheaper methyl Ino gamma is probably more leaning towards I would say iris and I know an alpha is probably a little bit more violet but iris and violet are so similar as a flower scent that a lot of people get a mixed up anyway so either these two will do just fine
19:58
the next floral I think everybody should have in their arsenal is neroli or orange flower orange blossom sometimes it's called again this essential oil is super super expensive and nobody really makes a good single aroma chemical reproduction of this but sometimes if you go to the the websites like creating perfume calm perfumes apprentice they make their own you know pre-made Accords what they call
20:28
it like house Accords and they're from / free perfumers apprentice they're neroli orange blossom Accord is actually pretty darn good like this thing right here it's like 5 bucks for this bottle and it'll last me months and it's pretty pretty as far as an orange blossom I mean it's convincing now this last floral technically it's not a floral it's more of an herbal but to me it smells floral so I thought I'd throw it in the floor category and I think everybody needs this everybody
20:59
needs some sort of lavender lavender essential oils dirt cheap you can get different kinds of ones there's lavender and then there's leavened in lavend in like Levantine Grosso is a mix of leavened in and lavender but it's very herbal and cameras if some people don't enjoy it so if you had to choose between lavender and lavender with lavender like I particularly have lavender diva a diva is the the type of lavender flower and this one's from
21:30
France dirt-cheap this little thing right here is like 15 bucks smells wonderful this lavender reminds me of that very sweet soft lavender kind of opening firm deal or Subash I freaking love this one a lot okay so now we're gonna move on to the category of citruses now for citruses there's a lot out there but there's four main citruses that every perfume kind of has and the citruses are really just top openings so
22:00
you're definitely going to want to get some sort of bergamot you can go with bergamot essential oil it's dirt cheap if I were to go with any sort of essential oil if they offer a cold-pressed version of it get that one because the cold-pressed versions are a little bit more robust a little they just have a little bit more punch in to them so if they have a cold-pressed version get that if you can't find a burger montoya l-- GFO down makes
22:32
bergamot jiff co it's their aroma chemical reconstruction of bergamot oil but the reason why they do that and the reason why I actually have a lot of this is because any natural citrus essential oil is very it's very volatile or material meaning it evaporates very very quickly for a natural with the bergamot Jif co because it's made of a bit of naturals and aroma chemicals mix combined it actually lasts a little bit longer than
23:04
the natural version so sometimes just grab both like if you can afford to get bergamot essential oil and the bergamot jeffco I like to blend the two so it smells real and the aroma chemicals kind of drags it out a little bit it drags out that scent so it lasts a little bit longer the next one that you should get your citruses lemon everybody's got to have some sort of lemon again this one's a cold-pressed lemon from Argentina I love this is the juiciest lemon I think
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I've ever smelled it's like it smells like somebody just cut up on a lemon and just smacked you in the face with it you can just feel the juiciness I love it it's worked so well for summer scents now opposite of lemon you're gonna want some sort of orange oil now orange oil can come in many many different ways you can get sweet orange oil you can get bitter orange oil you can get blood orange oil there's just so many different ones but if I were to choose one just go with something generic and
24:05
that's the sweet orange oil and that's it's not bitter it's not overly blood it's not it's it's just kind of like your run-of-the-mill middle-of-the-road orange oil it works great for any application and then the last one you're gonna want to get some sort of grapefruit grapefruit oils again much like the orange oil comes in many different ways you can get pink grapefruit you can get ruby red grapefruit you can get white grapefruit and that becomes a preference because they all smell like grapefruit but they're all a little bit different like
24:37
the white grapefruit in particular to me is a great top note it's very sharp it's very persistent it's very sticky and in your face and it works great for a top note if you want to tone it down a bit you can get pink grapefruit I think pink grapefruit is a good middle-of-the-road or you can get the ruby red which is the sweetest of the grapefruits I chose pink grapefruit as a you know a first starter now the next category we're going to go into more of the spicy
25:09
Gouri so spicy can be many different things it could be spices like you would find in a spice rack when you're cooking it could be incense it could be a lot of things so I kind of chose a lot of different spices here that I think everybody should have the one thing probably the most commonly used spice ingredient in perfumery is some sort of cinnamon now you can get different cinnamons you can get cinnamon bark cinnamon leaf cinnamon absolute there's
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cinnamon tinctures but if I were to choose one single cinnamon for the rest of my life it would be cinnamon ik aldehyde it smells identical to Simmonds cinnamon and it's stronger so this little tiny vial I bought a heck of a long time ago and I have it diluted down so I think a 10 percent I have another bottle this size diluted it down to 10% because it's so strong this is so strong and it's so good though it's so good it just mimics cinnamon perfectly and that's that would
26:12
be my choice for your cinnamon scent now if you were gonna go with something a little bit more gourmand spicy you can get nutmeg oil nutmeg oil it's good it's just it's a very generic spicy cinnamon or not some in a very gourmand kind of like you know off the spice right kind of thing yeah it's good to have I would say you don't need it but if you're a fan of spicy sense it's a good thing to have now the next one this is probably a
26:42
must-have and I love it I love it and for any spice category I think everybody should have what's called allspice and allspice is kind of like it's a mix of all this that's basically what it is it's a mix of all these spices blends together so it's all these different gourmand spices and peppers and it's very it's just dry and Scratchy and at the same time it's edible mouth watering it's it's your all-in-one go-to spice
27:12
now there's also perfumers apprentice we makes one what's called a spice you know their house blended Accords and that mimics allspice as well you and get either or to be honest with you they're both great perfect if you're trying to go for that Viktor and Rolf spice-bomb kind of feel that spiciness another spice that I think is a must have pink pepper this one's called pink peppercorn oil perfect top openings if you're a fan of
27:44
deer or savage love that you know that very sharp zesty pink peppery vibe I think everybody needs paint pepper in their arsenal for sure let's see now technically this this next one's not a spice I didn't know where to put this in any of these categories but it's it's tobacco it's a tobacco leaf now this one is a tobacco Absolut's diluted pre diluted to 5% when you buy it from this company and it's perfect
28:14
for that if you like tobacco accords or tobacco cents especially in men's fragrances this does wonderfully it's it's not a dirty stinky tobacco it's more of the it's a sweet almost a cherry tobacco and this one was purchased from perfume as apprentice and it was already pretty diluted at 5% I actually have this this bottle here I have another large bottle as a backup I use it all the time I love it a good spicy top note
28:45
so cardamom widely widely used in perfumery so cardamom is definitely it's it's a spicy kind of gourmand but at the same time it's kind of uplifting as well because it's used as a top to a middle note cardamom is used in so many fragrances it's so popular and especially men's fragrances it's widely used everybody needs cardamom now a bottle like this a 15 ml bottle it's about 15 bucks it won't break the bank but it's
29:17
something you have to have if you don't have if you don't have cardamom I mean come on you need it the last spicy category or the last spicy scent in the category I think you should have as a first-time buy you need frankincense and frankincense is just essentially it's just incense you can get it as an essential oil there's many different things they call it all the bottom or frankincense it's the same thing just a different name and that is more of you're not necessarily smoky but the best way to describe it is
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incense like those little incense sticks you burn or if you're going to church and you know people are walking down the aisles with those urns and they're blowing the smoke of incense smells just like it so if incense is your thing grab it but I think everybody should have some sort of smokey incense in their stash of you know must-haves this next category it's a slim one because there's so many of these and these are your I don't want to say they're aquatics but these are more of your sea Breezie ons
30:19
onik kind of materials the most widely used one in perfumery is Calonne and that is the one that's associated with a lot of men's aquatic fragrances it's got that not necessarily sea salty but it's very fresh very breezy slightly slightly sea watery I want to say it's kind of like seaweed but you don't get seaweed but you do get some sort of sea by but it's very breezy sea an aquatic Kyl own
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is probably the number one aquatics you know aroma chemical used now if that's not your thing let's say if you're working on a women's perfume and you want this same effect but you don't want manly fresh you know breezy sea water they make floral ozone this is a ten percent solution I have a big bottle I had to dilute it down to 10% because it's so strong you have to dilute these down to 10% before you use it this is the floral version of this it's still
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very open air breezy semi-aquatic and wet but it has hints of floral in it and particularly like lily of the valley floral it so it's very fresh very open very breezy great great thing to use in women's perfumes so that brings us now to the sweeter side of things the more gourmand ingredients and if I were to narrow it to just three things the one thing everyone's got to have is tonka bean
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tonka bean is a ton of stuff it's very sweet it's an excellent fixative it's an excellent base notes it's very gourmand but tonka bean can be expensive if you buy the absolute I actually have the absolute and in my stash but I rarely I rarely use it cause it's so darn expensive and I'm afraid to use it all up so again a lot of these retailers make synthetic versions of it and perfumers apprentice comm did an excellent job making their own tonka
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bean accord and it works wonderful it smells like the real deal I mean it's probably not as pungent as a tonka bean absolute or the real thing but it smells identical tonka bean a cord from perfumers apprentice is probably a good first choice for your your first pick and then the last two in the gourmand category now you're looking at these you're probably like wait a second these don't look like you know bottles of anything if you shake them up these are solids these are crystals so
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these need to be diluted into you know little bottles like this or you could actually just drop the crystals in your perfume blend but I wouldn't recommend that as as you're starting out so as a first buy you're gonna want some sort of vanilla notes and there's so many different vanillas out there vanilla absolutes but you can get ethyl vanillin which is it's just like a little it's a fine powder I swear to god it just looks like if the cops were here they think I have a vial of cocaine or something and
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it's lovely but because it's a powder you actually have to drop it in something like this and dilute it in alcohol so you could actually take a dropper and use it in your blends but ethyl vanillin super strong a great vanilla note now the last gorman you have to have you just have to have this and this is ethyl maltol crystals again these come in powdery like crystal form probably can't see it in the camera but this is this
33:58
your definite sweet note this is so widely used in women's perfume and in men's sometimes but more so women's because a lot of women's perfumes can be so Khloe Lee sweet its from the ethyl maltol and this is it smells like cotton candy it's I swear to god it's like cotton candy sweet some people use it in their blends to kind of give more of like a caramel ik kind of syrupy sweet but when you put it in a blend it comes across as just sweet sugary cotton candy and you should have it everybody should have if you want to add sweetness to
34:30
your perfumes that's your first go-to ingredient to try okay so this next category is going to be your Amber's now Amber's can be kind of two sides of the coin you can get amber and a sense of ambergris amber green or you can get amber which is kind of like the fantasy Accord it's like a made up of a cord if you ever watch that movie Jurassic Park where the old guy with the glasses that built the park has his little walking
35:01
stick and he has the mosquito on a cane and it's wrapped in this little red orange glowing looking rock that's amber and amber is just a petrified solid piece of rock and it looks like glass and but it doesn't smell like anything but people started to make amber Accords and they they call it a fantasy Accord because people would be like well if amber did have a scent what would it smell like it would probably smell something maybe semi-sweet a little bit balsamic
35:32
definitely warm definitely wet so there isn't really a true amber material that you can buy I had to actually make my own amber Accords but with that being said you can still go to like perfumers apprentice comm creating perfume calm those folks there make a their own version of an amber Accord and I think everybody needs it everybody needs an Amber Accord in their arsenal like if
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you're a fan like a men's fragrance if you're a fan of Dolce Gabbana's the one and that's heavily heavily heavily the bass note is an Amber Accord that's what gives it that warm resinous kind of you know feeling to it you need that sort of amber Accord in there so just go to perfumers apprentice or Creighton perfume browse their Amber's they make different amber Accords some are cleaned somewhere a little bit warmer and just pick any any will do so the next two for
36:35
the amber category would be more of your ambergris but these one it's more of like an Broxson so again these are sold in crystal or solid form you probably can't see it in the camera but again you have to dilute these in order to use it so once you dilute it it comes out into a liquid form you can use it in a dropper so ambergris comes in two forms actually a lot of different forms you
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can get generic and Broxson crystals and that's the synthetic you know reconstruction of what an ambergris would smell like and Broxson anybody that's you know starting to make their own perfumes probably has heard that term before and Broxson it's it's in a lot of things in modern-day perfumes in the past ten years your savage Versace Dylan blue you know so many are what they call em Brock's and balms because they use this so heavily in their perfumes it smells great I love it it's
37:35
like it's it's just a warm pillowy sweetness without it being too sweet and it gives us this nice salty sea and Malak kind of vibe to it so that I actually have two kinds of amber and Broxson crystals you can get Firmenich makes one called settle locks and or you can just get the basic generic and Broxson crystals and both I would say are very very similar set of locks is a more refined a little bit more delicate
38:05
it's it smells high-end to me it's sweeter and a little bit more high-end I prefer side locks between the two but this is more expensive so if you had to get one of these two and you're like I need in Broxson in my arsenal I just need it just get two just to get the regular and Broxson crystals they'll be it'll be just fine okay so this next category we're going to talk about it's a slim category these are kind of more of your manlier sense so I kept these
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two to a minimal one is going to be your kind of Massey sense and that would be your oak Moss so oak Moss super expensive but it's also heavily restricted in the perfumery world like there's ifr a restrictions meaning you can't use X amount percent of it in your perfume concentrate because they think it's it's toxic so you can get oak Moss absolute but you won't be able to use a
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lot of it because of the restrictions so again the company at Java down made oak Moss Chipko which is their synthetic version of it and it smells wonderful I love it it's it's one of those things like if you're gonna get one oak Moss and just have it for your arsenal and just have the one it would be okay Austin Co it's amazing and then the next one that I would put in this scent of the manly kind of animalic mossy things you need some sort of leather sense something that would just leather or
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suede and there's so many different ones out there but the company iff made one called suede or all and it's perfect it's it's it's suede it's leather and it's it's a reconstruction of what would smell like natural leather suede but it's all aroma chemicals and it's it's it's soft it's smooth and it's not it's not overly animalic but suede are all from iff is
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very strong it's super strong so I have just this small little bot this little tiny vial right here because I had I had to dilute it to a 10% solution just to use it so this little tiny four ml bottle that you can probably buy for like six dollars is going to last you like over a year so the last category I want to go over is your green fresh green notes now green could mean a lot of things to a
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lot of people but it's usually leafy it's usually grassy so you can grab yourself what's called violet leaf absolute it's pretty I don't want to say it's inexpensive but it's obtainable if you're a first time for femur and you're grabbing your first-time ingredients you can probably pick this up violet leaf absolute here's a 10 per 10 percent solution when you buy it it comes in a small tiny little vial like this and it's thick it's syrupy you try to pour it it just kind of slowly sludges out
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because it's so thick and then you dilute it to a 10% solution where it's easily used in a pipette so violet leaf absolute is very uplifting it's very fresh it's very green but it also smells very wet so if that's kind of your thing if you like that green kind of leafy that was just after the rain violet leaf absolute does that wonderfully now if you're not quite sure what kind of leaf I mean there's so many different green leaves out there you can get you know violet leaf there's birch leaf there's
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all these you know other kind of leaves stem I think there's a IFF mix one called stem own or something like that and that's another great one so but if you don't know which green leaf you want to get again perfumers apprentice knocked it out of the park with this one and they made their own in-house green leaf accord where it doesn't sway towards any particular leaf in general doesn't it doesn't smell like violently if it doesn't smell like birch leaf it doesn't smell like grass it just smells green and when I smell it's like oh I
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smell a little bit of grass I smell fresh leaves it smells wet it's very fresh very uplifting and if I were to choose one aroma chemical to buy that captures just a green note in general it would be green leaf a cord from perfuse apprentice and then the last one in the green category now this is a single aroma chemical and it's strong it's it's pretty strong it's your sister II hexanol and this is your green grass notes it's
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not a leafy note so the best way to describe sistera hexanol is let's say you just mowed your lawn and you have this giant bag of long you know lawn clippings from your low and more and you stuck your head in and took a whiff that's what this smells like it's green grass freshly cut green grass now I lied there's one more category but it's an honorable mention so this one doesn't necessarily fit into a lot of these categories but I think it's one everybody should have and it's more of a
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balsamic category but it can it can be used in many other categories than just balsamic and that would be your benzoin this one in particular I hand selected for you guys because regular it smells so good regular benzoin or benzoin is a very very thick syrupy material this particular one is made by iff and it's their reconstitution of benzine but it
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uses real benzoin but that they also put other aroma chemicals in there so it's not so thick if you ever got a hold of real like benzoin like in a bottle like this you can see it's pretty liquidy but real bends when you go like this and it sludges out slowly and things like that are just a nightmare when you're trying to use like a pipette and you're trying to pick it out and then you're trying to push it out and it's just barely squeezing out and then your pipette gets so gooey because it's so gummy benzoin
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they call it benzine a Philly AK 63 from iff is a friendlier version to use so it's not so sticky and it smells just like benzoin now I get a lot of vanilla tones slightly balsamic it's sweet it's definitely sweet but it's also resinous and this actually could have fell into the amber category that we talked about earlier because benzoin is actually part of the
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red amber accord that I mentioned earlier and this is a big player in that Accord but by itself it does wonders if you want to add some sweetness to your bass notes if you want to add something sweeter just a little bit more resinous and it's a great great thing to have alright we did it we covered all the aroma chemicals and materials that I thought you should have as a first time buy as a DIY perfumer and like I said there's hundreds and hundreds of aroma
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chemicals that you can buy out there but these were hand selected as a good beginners to start playing with so you get a feel of each a little scent from every category that way you have some things to play with for like different top notes different middle different base notes different categories different scent styles and this is a good selection to start you off with so in the description below I'm gonna list all these out again and then I'll also link it to the probably the three or four websites where I would buy them so you can kind of pick and choose and
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comparison shop with prices and just buy what's you know best for your needs so now let's move on to looking at storage of all this stuff don't them alcohol not the kind that you drink that's your perfumers alcohol you're definitely going to want to to pick this stuff up you're gonna need it perfumers alcohol specifically SDA forty
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be 200 proof you need 200 proof trust me don't get anything other 200 proof this is what the pros use this is what you're going to need keep a lot of it on hand trust me you're going to need it now me personally I like a discreet storage because I perfume in my dining room and I just do it when I need to on the fly I use these two rolling carts that are on wheels so I can wheel these carts out into whatever room I want to use I could throw them in the back of my truck if I wanted to do but the traditional method would be people would
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build a desk they would have what's called a perfumers Oregon a specific seat desk table all these beautiful shelves around it with all their materials listed in front of them and it's kind of like an organ like a piano player and they can just grab off the shelf as they see it my setup because I want it discreet and I don't want my place looking like a perfumery place is I have these rolling carts so anytime I open up one of these it's like cool here's all my powders on my caps here's all my middle notes my florals all in
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one drawer here's all my aroma chemicals and just oddballs is what I call it these are all my delusions and as you can see it's just everything is just neatly organized in the wrong drawer here's the drawer just full of bass notes only here's a drawer just full of top notes here's all my Accord blends that I've created and it just works it doesn't mean you have to go this route this is the route that I chose because I want a discrete setup and so when
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somebody comes into my house they don't see bottles everywhere they don't see a Roma Chemical sitting out the place isn't stinking like a mess they look like normal pieces of furniture and it works but you don't have to go that route you can you can build a desk you can have a perfumers organ with all your shelves and make it look beautiful this is the route that I chose you can choose how you want to so let's talk equipment so you want to start perfuming at home you kind of have
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a general idea of what you may need but you're not quite sure and you want a little bit of guidance so I'm gonna go through the must-haves the necessities that you're going to definitely want to have and you probably can't make stuff without it so the first thing you're gonna want to get is a scale I mean this one right here probably may be overkill for a first-time buyer this scale right here ran me a hundred bucks it wasn't that bad I actually have three scales
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this is now my third scale when I first started perfuming I didn't know what to get so I went on Amazon I got like a cheap $20.00 scale realized it wasn't very accurate wasn't very adequate so I moved up to a $50 scale realized again wasn't cutting the mustard this one did me pretty good but the other two that I bought previously we're a good starter scale just to get me in the right direction but the point is you're gonna need a scale if you're going to do the drop by drop method which is fine when
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people first start off they have their notebook and they're just kind of writing the other note so I'm gonna add one drop of this I'm gonna add two drops of that but you're not going to be very accurate it's not gonna be very precise because now let's say you make a blend and you're like okay now I want to you know make a bottle of this blend you know I want to make five bottles I want to make ten bottles of it what are you gonna do you're gonna sit there and be like counting 300 drops of this 500 drops of that it just it's not feasible so when you get a scale you want to
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measure things by weight and that's why the scale is so important because every time you place one drop of your chemical in the beaker it will tell you the weight in grams so when choosing the scale there's two things that you're going to want to look for one is what's the overall capacity of the scale how many grams maximum can it go up to this one in particular goes up to 200 grams suits me just fine for all my you know tinkering and all my experimental blends if I ever wanted to make a gigantic canister of something this would not do
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but for me right now it does fine the next thing that you're gonna want to look for is what is the accuracy and readout meaning how precise can it be is it something that measures like 0.01 grams accuracy is it 0.001 accuracy like how precise will the scale get this particular one goes down from point zero zero one accuracy now some of the ones from Amazon that I bought that I spoke to earlier that were like twenty to
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forty fifty dollars they claim they do point zero zero one accuracy I wouldn't believe it from a forty dollar scale to be honest with you maybe it would read it out I don't know how accurate was as far as counting that down to that very fine grain of a percentage basically so the next thing from your scale you're definitely going to need pipettes now pipettes you can actually get two kinds you can get your disposable plastic ones I have a gigantic bag sitting in the
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corner I personally don't like using plastic pipettes one because it's it's a waste of plastic they're disposable you're throwing it out and if you want to be good for the environment I chose to do glass now the downside with glass this this is actually just one canister of my pipettes I actually have over a hundred of these and they're a pain in the ass to wash because every time you use them and with the plastic pipettes there are a one-time-use you throw it away you drop it you use it when you're
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done with your perfumery session you take the pipettes you throw them away you throw out the plastic ones the glass ones are reusable so you can pop the tops off and now you're just left with the glass but you still got to clean the gunk out and that's what the pain-in-the-ass part is so every time I'm done with a perfumery session I you know I I toss these all into a giant canister of you know alcohol and soap and I just let them sit for hours to dissolve all the oils and then I got to rinse them off and clean them out and stuff like that it's a pain in the ass but for me the glass pipette just feels
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cleaner I just like using glass pipettes it's up to you if you want to do glass or if you want to do plastic whichever you prefer either way you're going to need pipette as far as pipette size they come in short ones medium long doesn't matter grab the small ones if you want whatever is cheapest the only time you need a long pipette is unless you're going to have you know these giant beakers that are like yay tall and you're really trying to get in there small ones are gonna be just fine which brings me now to the next part you're going to
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definitely need beakers and this one has got so many fingerprints on it so beakers beakers beakers your beakers are your friend I have I don't really have a lot of beakers I think I have like seven or eight of them and I chose to get these 50ml ones perfect size for working with small perfume blends that like experimental blends again you're probably just doing a drop by drop measuring the things on the scale a small beaker fits in here perfectly and
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one I've never filled one of these all the way up to the max with you know perfume concentration it's usually way down here so but they're perfect for experimental blends they're small they're not bulky they work well with small droppers so you can go on Amazon and get like a five pack of these 50 MLS like twelve bucks I mean why not just do it the next thing you're going to want to get is empty glass bottles they come
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in different kinds clear cobalt green amber the only big difference is like I like the clear ones personally because you can see through it and see how much you know stuff you have left how much juice is in there but you do want to make sure you have some amber ones on stash or colored ones depending on where you store your materials if you're storing your stuff that's close to like on a shelf that has a lot of sunlight sunlight could actually damage your materials if it's in a clear bottle because it deteriorates and just makes
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it age faster this will protect you from your UV rays Sun lights and will protect your material contents inside but not every material reacts that way usually it's going to be like your more volatile like citrus like bergamot in orange those are very not UV ready friendly so those are the ones you're gonna want to put in something like this all your other materials you're gonna be fine with a glass a glass bottle I would say to start off with get the 15 ml
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bottles these are perfect for storing like if you're gonna make your own blend of something if you make your own rose Accord if you make your own amber Accord and you make it and you can fill this up and you have your your own accord now store it in your bottle that you could use it any time for your next perfume session now with the bottles though the cap is important I cannot stress this enough the cap itself you're gonna want to get what's called the poly cone liner cap and I'm not sure if you could
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actually see inside there but there's basically it looks like a little funneled cone in there and what that does is creates a perfect seal airtight for your material inside do not and I repeat do not store your materials in those bottles that have those little dropper screw caps they have the dropper built-in you're gonna ruin your material I made that mistake my very first time buying all my you know my first supplies I thought I would be so efficient by
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having the the little droppers built-in so I wouldn't have to waste you know extra droppers I ruined so much material by that because they're not airtight and I found that out the hard way one day you know I live in Southern California these heat waves in the summertime just started coming up and I realized that my bottles the the the contents inside were slowly going down and what's happening was the heat was actually evaporating the contents because the seal on the top of the dropper wasn't a perfect seal and they never are so you not only lose your
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materials but a lot of your diluted materials like if you have you know your Alda hides like this diluted to 10% in a dropper bottle all the alcohol that was that was in there that was diluted it slowly evaporates and leaves you with a bottle of an unknown dilution like this is aldehyde c12 M&A in ten percent if this was in a dropper top bar and I left it out for probably five months the the alcohol would slowly evaporate and it would no longer be a 10% solution I wouldn't even know what
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the solution would be because the alcohol had left a lot of it so don't get the dropper top bottles get the poly cone liners it's a perfect seal you won't regret it trust me and another thing you're probably going to want a lot of times you're going to be making a lot of these blends and you're gonna want to test them because of course you're gonna make a bland ring like okay I want to smell it I want to spray it on me well how do I do that you
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can get these little 10 ml atomizers and Amazon sells in dirt cheap I think I bought like a box of a hundred for 20 bucks and they're perfect for holding on to your perfume experiments so as I make a blend and once I'm done I'll dilute it into you know my perfumers alcohol make it like an EDP concentration and I'll fill one of these up shake it up boom boom boom boom spray it on and you can smell your your concoction right away and then because it's a 10 ml bottle it
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holds enough juice that'll probably last you a week so if you smell it one day you know smell it again the next two or three days see how the perfume changes over time and you need to do that with you know an atomizer like this so atomizers are super important so with atomizers for your test blends now of course if you do finish a perfume that you're happy with and you're like I've done it I've cracked the code I made my first perfume I think it's perfect I want to bottle it now I want it to
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Savior for myself you're going to want to get empty perfume bottles and again there's a ton of companies out there online that sell these you can get them relatively inexpensive from like skb bottling company sells them and they sell them in different sizes different shapes some are round some are square some are tall like you can choose the colors and stuff like that or you can just go on Amazon I know like this particular one is like a little bit it's a little 30ml bottle comes with
01:00:01
I bought a I think it was a five or a ten pack for 20 bucks and I thought that was a steal so anytime I make a fragrance and I want to gift it to somebody like a friend a loved one or a family member like hey I made you a fragrance I usually just use one of these it's perfect the last thing you're going to need as far as equipment and this is probably a no-brainer you're going to need plastic and you're
01:00:33
probably like BK why do I need plastic cuz this crap is messy let me tell you depending on where you're actually going to be working some people are fortunate enough to have a dedicated room for perfumery and they might have this beautiful organ with shelves and they sit down at a desk dedicated to perfumery me personally I don't have that luxury I do it where I can wherever I can like right now I'm sitting at my dining room table filming this video with all my things and what I'll do but before
01:01:05
after before every session I just get just a basic sheet of plastic it's the same plastic that you see painters use when they put it on the floor and they're getting ready to paint a room and I cut large squares and you're gonna want to lay it out because you do not want any of this stuff touching your wood table or your metal table or your plastic table because essential oils aroma chemicals will kill your table I made them you know in the beginning I made that mistake where I didn't have any plastic and I noticed any time I
01:01:36
accidentally dropped a left you know drop something on the table like just the slightest drop and I didn't wipe it up the next day it would stain permanently it would eat away rot at the wood permanently protect your table unless you have a dedicated table that you really don't care about if it gets messy or whatever get a piece of plastic even something as cheesy as like cellophane saran wrap like that cooking wrap and just lay it down just don't
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leave a mess with the oils on the wood the last equipment that you will need for your perfume making is a notebook a notebook is essential I mean how else are you gonna keep track of all your experiments I mean like this one right here has all these ingredients and all these little checks and it just tells me all my different trials my failures my wins every time I made something how many drops I used was it a win I put a star next to it if it failed
01:02:37
I'd cross it out and go to the next one and then to the next one and you'll go through so many blends within a day it's crazy like in a given day I'll probably go through maybe four or five trial blends and then I'll be like okay that's enough for today and you know and then I'll start again tomorrow but you need to keep a ledger and keep track of what you're doing because if you don't how are you gonna remember how many drops or how many grams you added of what you know ingredient if you don't have a notebook you can do like you know Excel
01:03:07
spreadsheets that's perfect especially if you have like Google Google sheets is online I use Google sheets now I actually have this as kind of like my pre my prelim experiments and then if if something goes well I'll transfer what was you know what went well into a Google sheet and then I'll take it from there with actual formulas and percentages so but you definitely want to start off with some sort of notebook some sort of ledger to keep track of your your experiment so you remember so with all that being said I hope you
01:03:41
found this video useful and it was packed full of information that you needed to get you off on the right foot to make your own perfumes at home so it's a little bit less daunting a little bit less scary and it kind of leads you into that path of now you kind of know where to go so you'll find a lot of links in the description below where all these things that I've listed out where you can buy them some of the aroma chemicals and materials essential oils the ones that I picked out I've listed them all out on the bottom so we'll see you soon

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