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00:11
[Music]
what's up guys so today is the video for
the basic perfumer that doesn't know
where to get started you know you want
to start creating your perfumes at home
but you not quite understand where to
start
where should I buy my materials what
kind of materials what kind of things do
I need to get all this started because
sure you can just go out and buy some
essential oils and just start dropping
things together and do it yourself but
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your you want to do it the right way so
in this video we're gonna tackle all the
basic things and all the basic steps
that be the the DIY beginner is gonna
want to go with in order to create their
own perfumes at home we're gonna discuss
equipment we're gonna discuss storage of
your materials whether it fits in if you
have a dedicated room like a perfumer
Zorgon or maybe if you have storage
cabinets we're going to discuss the
materials now in this video I'm actually
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going to pick out some like starter
materials now there's hundreds and
hundreds of aroma chemicals and
essential oils and things that you can
buy and that's probably the one thing
that most people get confused on when
they first start out because they don't
know what to buy there's just so many
they don't know what they do some of the
names are confusing so I hand selected a
couple of things from each category like
categories of citruses maybe categories
of woods something from spices something
from ozone ik so I break it down and
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kind of handpick all some of the basic
materials that you would need to get you
started without having to dive deep into
getting all these different little niche
aroma chemicals to make all these
different things these are gonna be some
other things that I pick out that I
personally love to use so instead of
making your own rose Accord which can
consist of maybe five to ten aroma
chemicals I'm gonna pick out one single
blend that you can purchase from these
big fragrance companies like geodon or
iff or sim rise so I'll pick all these
different things
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that gets you started so you can start
creating your own blends at home and
then you can take it to the next level
from there and then the last thing we're
going to discuss is where to buy all
this stuff where do you buy your
equipment where would you buy a roma
chemicals here in the United States or
anywhere in the world so I have a couple
go to places that I personally love to
buy from and I buy from every single
week I'm constantly spending spending
spending money on this this is an
expensive hobby just just an FYI to get
you in the know right now you're gonna
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start this now and think I got to spend
all this money on all this things and
then you'll realize the next week you're
gonna want more ingredients you're gonna
want to try new things and it's just
you're gonna bye bye bye
so I hand-picked three different
websites that I personally love going to
trustworthy sources great materials and
yeah so without further ado let's get
started
so now let's take a look at some of
these materials that I picked out for
the the basic beginner first timer if
you will
perfumer for somebody that wants to
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start creating perfumes at home so I've
hand selected a whole bunch of things
out of my arsenal and quite honestly
this is only like a small percentage of
my stuff but I have everything grouped
by categories which I think that'll get
you started off on the right foot as far
as but you would probably enjoy using or
experimenting with without diving too
deep into specific aroma chemicals so
the first group I have here is what I
call the must-haves like these are the
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ingredients that every single perfumer
or DIY pro femur is going to want in
their arsenal it's used in almost every
modern-day perfume and you're definitely
gonna want it so the first thing we've
got is Galax allied now Galax allied is
a it's a musk and I know a lot of people
get turned off by muss or like no I
don't like musky my perfumes but Galax
allied is a very forgiving clean musk it
has a very low odor threshold so it's
very hard to detect you can easily
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overdose this in your perfume and be
okay so it's a very safe clean Musk so
if you had to go with just a one Musk
out of your entire arsenal start with
this one
so then the next one I think everybody
should have always ISO e super ISO e
supers and every perfume nowadays it's
more of a soft velvety woody scent but
again it's a very low odor threshold you
can easily overdose this in your perfume
your perfume and not even really smell
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it it's they're more of kind of like a
blender I would consider this more of a
functional kind of ingredient than more
of a scented ingredient now on the flip
side you've got Hettie own Hetty own is
much like ISO II super but instead of
woody this is more of like a white
narcotic floral kind of like jasmine if
you will so again very very light
scented a lot of women's perfumes
nowadays can go easily up to 20% of
their perfume concentrate with Jeff
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this ingredient alone really overused in
the perfumery industry so this is a
definite must-have and then the last one
of the must-haves is your basic old
lintel all and lintel all is a top note
floral it's very soft it's very delicate
and it actually brings a lot of lift
into your fragrances so Linna law is
actually an aroma chemical that's found
in a lot of florals so this is
definitely a must-have
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now the next category again I'm gonna go
back into a musk category say Galax
allied wasn't quite your thing it's too
clean and you're like I would like a
musky scent if I had to choose one musk
for the rest of my life it would be
exalted I'd total from fermanich this is
it's still a semi clean musk it's not as
clean as Galax allied but now it's
getting into the more darker sensual
kind of musk so if you had to have two
musk and that was it I would choose
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Galax alight in this one so at least
with having both you have options
depending on what perfume you're going
to go with if you want to clean or
perfume and go with Galax alight if you
want something a little bit more deeper
a little bit more sensual and musky ER
axalta light total now your next
category is gonna be your woods category
and these are all poor you know pretty
much bass notes so notes can be all over
the place and perfumes and it's very
very subjective as far as preference so
I've hand-picked a couple things that I
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think fits into every kind of genre of
perfume so for the first one you're
definitely gonna go you're gonna want to
get some cedar wood essential oil cedar
wood essential oil is found in so many
colognes and perfumes I mean if it's a
wood I'd say probably 25% of perfumes
out there that has a wood it's probably
cedar what it's it's used that much now
there's different kinds of cedar woods
out there this like you can get cedar
wood from Virginia from Texas from all
different you know countries I
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particularly got the one from Texas
because it's just the basic generic
cedar wood
now the next one is black agar or black
agar sometimes also known as ode now
this one in particular dude is very very
very expensive so this one that I chose
is actually made by Javad on and it's
black
agar give KO very affordable it's their
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synthetic reconstitution of what an agar
or it would smell like so if you can't
afford a real food oil which is probably
like hundreds and hundreds of dollars
just for a small little vial this is
your next best bet like a small bottle
like this shouldn't cost you more than
fifteen twenty dollars so the next one
is going to be somewhere and the lines
of your sandal woods sandal woods are
very popular in women's perfume as the
wood of choice so sandalwood again is a
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very very expensive essential oil to
obtain it's probably way too expensive
for the beginner or for somebody
starting off so I particularly chose
there's an aroma chemical called sandal
or or sometimes you can get one called
sandela and this again is a aroma
chemical kind of reproduction of what
sandalwood oil would smell like saves
you ton of money it's I wouldn't say
it's as good as the real thing but when
it's blended in a perfume most people
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wouldn't know the difference see the
next one would be patchouli patchouli
oil is actually very obtainable it's
very cheap there's different kinds of
patchouli most people get turned off by
patchouli though because it's very dirty
it's very earthy so if I were to choose
a specific patchouli Firmenich makes one
called clear wood and clear wood is the
cleaned up version of patchouli it's
it's almost like the nice dry grassy
woody patchouli without that dirt and
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skank in it so if you were to get a
patchouli oil and didn't know which one
to get start with clear wood first
because it's very clean and very easy to
work with and then the last two I want
to talk about in the woods category
technically
necessarily woods but they kind of fall
in that category and these are probably
nice to have you don't have to have them
but juniper berry oil even though it
comes from a tree it's a it's not
necessarily a wood this is more of a top
note it's kind of like a sweeter wood so
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just imagine the leaves and the berries
of a juniper berry tree excellent
excellent excellent top note and then
the last one is you're gonna need some
sort of fir pine needle kind of green
scent so that Christmassy scent so if
you can't get a hold of any sort of pine
essential oil your next bet is probably
gonna be some Cypress oil this
particular one is a pure natural
essential oil from Spain very affordable
little bottle like this probably 1012
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dollars so the next category we're gonna
dive into now is your aldehydes now all
the hides are tricky to work with they
have to be heavily diluted because you
can buy a small bottle like say a small
little $5 bottle like this and this'll
last you a long time because you're
going to dilute it into larger bottles
like this - usually ten percent so the
four aldehydes that I would probably
start off with is your c12 ma aldehyde
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this is probably the most common
aldehyde out there it's it's really old
it's been in perfumery for so many
decades now this aldehyde is as with any
aldehyde it's very clean
uplifting air well not aromatic but just
very it creates this head space for your
perfume where just gives everything
that's lift and that's what an aldehyde
does but every other hide has a
different facet or a different scent
kind of profile to it the c12 MNA is
more of your dry amber
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kind of aldehyde so it does give it that
openness that lifts but it's a little
bit on the dry warm amber side it's good
to have in your perfume if you're
creating well like an Amber based
perfume the next one would be your c12
lauric this
is strong strong strong I have this
diluted down to five percent so this
aldehyde is your basic go-to if you want
that clean soapy dried linens kind of
aldehyde scent this is a great great
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clean aldehyde to have just dilute the
heck out of it because it's strong so
now the next one we're going to talk
about is aldehyde c10 decay now and now
this one this is more of like the zesty
orange peel aldehyde so this usually is
my first go-to choice of aldehyde if I'm
creating like a citrus summer scent
fragrance and I need something to give
the top notes some lift this one is so
strong though I have it diluted down to
2% and I'm probably gonna dilute it down
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to 1% because one drop of this is still
super strong to my blends so if you want
that zesty kind of bright uplifting kind
of aldehyde your c10 the kennel is
probably a good choice to start with
last but not least this aldehyde
technically is not an aldehyde it's they
call it a so-called aldehyde because the
people that invented this actually miss
marketed it as an aldehyde because it's
older strength is so strong it reacts
like an aldehyde but its chemical
compounds technically it's not an
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aldehyde and that is aldehyde so called
strawberry
c16 you don't need this one but it
depends on the nature of what you're
gonna be creating in your perfumes in
the future I would say this is a great
one for more feminine perfumes a lot of
feminine perfumes usually are on the
sweeter on the fruitier side so if you
want some sort of all the hide then
mimic that and give that top-end some
lift your see 16 strawberry aldehyde is
usually a good good choice so now the
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next category is a very slim category
because there's just so many to talk
about but that's your fruity category so
what I've selected for fruits that are
good starting points is some sort of
Apple Accord you're gonna want like a
vent this is known for having a great
apple opening so as a
Oh what is that nautical voyage has a
great Apple Apple opening so if I were
to choose a single aroma chemical that
mimics an apple note the best that would
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be called man's innate and this one it's
a it's a very sweet Apple it's very
generic it's not red it's not green
apple it's just a generic apple it
actually has a almost kind of like a
kind of like apple cider scent - it's
sweet and but has a cider scent but it
blends so well for a top note the next
one would be more of on the feminine
side so if you like nectarines apricots
and peaches of course you can try and
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find some sort of oil that does that but
certain fruits don't produce essential
oil so you're you're kind of stuck with
half - getting some sort of aroma
chemical to do it and my choice for that
would be neck drill from Javad on and
again this one is a very generic kind of
apricot nectarine peach kind of scent
excellent top note kind of goes from top
to middle notes so this has got some
good longevity excellent for women's
perfumes which tend to be sometimes a
lot of women's perfumes love to have
that peachy opening this is a good thing
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to have and the last one in the fruit
category I think everybody should have
is some sort of pineapple accord now
pineapple itself you there is no
pineapple essential oil you can't really
get anything like that they have to be
you know remade through aroma chemicals
that's the only way about it and instead
of listing all the 10 ingredients of
aroma chemicals that makes up of a
pineapple I hand selected just one pre
blended accord that's actually made by
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creating perfume calm and she just calls
it the pineapple accord and it smells
wonderful it's thick juicy robust it's
perfect that's perfect for that treat
event is kind of pineapple opening and
it's very affordable like this little 15
ml bottle I think was ten bucks or
something like that and this is gonna
last a heck of a long time okay so now
that brings us to the floral category
and the floral category is
Brod and there's so many different types
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of florals but I've hand-picked just a
few that are more commonly and widely
used in the purr and perfumery so
obviously the first one is going to be
rose rose is used a lot in women's
perfumes not so much men's but if it's
done right it's done awesome but Rose if
you try to build your own rose Accord
you you're gonna have to build it with
so many aroma chemicals again you've got
to use citronella geranium peña that's
McComb bata you know all these things
and instead of trying to get you all
these different things you can just go
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out and buy one from Javad n called rose
gym co 217 and again this is their
concept this is the recreation it smells
so good of a generic rose and it smells
really lifelike to me to be honest with
you it's not necessarily like a spicy
rose it's not a clean rose it's not a
red rose it's not a white water rose
it's just your average generic rose a
chord and it's dirt cheap and it works
wonders I think everybody should have it
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as a first timer the next one is your
Jasmine's jasmine essential oil is
ungodly expensive I mean just a small
little vial like this probably a hundred
bucks and it won't last you long so you
have to rely on aroma chemicals so
you're gonna notice a theme with all
these things that I'm showing you here
is these big houses like iff vivid on
Sunrise
they make synthetic remakes of what
would be an essential oil so these big
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houses like sim rised
vivid on iff they remake their own
versions of these really expensive oils
through aroma chemicals and for jasmine
I've chose jasmit own from Chiba Don now
there's different ones out there and
like Firmenich makes jasmine specialty
they're both Jasmine's and they both
smell wonderful but they're just kind of
just a little bit different I carry both
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because one is a more sweeter the other
one is more delicate if I were to choose
one I mean
they're both pretty much the same price
- I would say jazz mattone is probably a
good first starter if you can afford to
get both on your first you know batch of
things you're gonna buy you know grab
both and see which one you like but
jasmine tone is actually a really good
one which now brings me to the iris the
Auris roots the violet that again you
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can try and do essential oils concretes
absolutes super expensive so with an
aroma a single enrollment chemical if
you want it to you know get by with a
sort of powdery iris note without you
know overwhelming yourself you could
either choose I own own alpha which is
super powdery and very iris like I mean
this alone you put it in a blend a lot
of people wouldn't be able to tell the
difference or you can get the old trusty
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methyl Ino gamma both are very very
similar if you smell them side by side
most people couldn't tell the difference
so I would say just get whichever one
you think is cheaper methyl Ino gamma is
probably more leaning towards I would
say iris and I know an alpha is probably
a little bit more violet but iris and
violet are so similar as a flower scent
that a lot of people get a mixed up
anyway so either these two will do just
fine
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the next floral I think everybody should
have in their arsenal is neroli or
orange flower orange blossom sometimes
it's called again this essential oil is
super super expensive and nobody really
makes a good single aroma chemical
reproduction of this but sometimes if
you go to the the websites like creating
perfume calm perfumes apprentice they
make their own
you know pre-made Accords what they call
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it like house Accords and they're from /
free perfumers apprentice they're neroli
orange blossom Accord is actually pretty
darn good like this thing right here
it's like 5 bucks for this bottle and
it'll last me months and it's pretty
pretty
as far as an orange blossom I mean it's
convincing
now this last floral technically it's
not a floral it's more of an herbal but
to me it smells floral so I thought I'd
throw it in the floor category and I
think everybody needs this everybody
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needs some sort of lavender lavender
essential oils dirt cheap you can get
different kinds of ones there's lavender
and then there's leavened in lavend in
like Levantine Grosso is a mix of
leavened in and lavender but it's very
herbal and cameras if some people don't
enjoy it so if you had to choose between
lavender and lavender
with lavender like I particularly have
lavender diva a diva is the the type of
lavender flower and this one's from
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France dirt-cheap this little thing
right here is like 15 bucks smells
wonderful this lavender reminds me of
that very sweet soft lavender kind of
opening firm deal or Subash I freaking
love this one a lot okay so now we're
gonna move on to the category of
citruses now for citruses there's a lot
out there but there's four main citruses
that every perfume kind of has and the
citruses are really just top openings so
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you're definitely going to want to get
some sort of bergamot you can go with
bergamot essential oil it's dirt cheap
if I were to go with any sort of
essential oil if they offer a
cold-pressed version of it get that one
because the cold-pressed versions are a
little bit more robust a little they
just have a little bit more punch in to
them so if they have a cold-pressed
version get that if you can't find a
burger montoya l-- GFO down makes
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bergamot jiff co it's their aroma
chemical reconstruction of bergamot oil
but the reason why they do that and the
reason why I actually have a lot of this
is because any natural citrus essential
oil is very it's very volatile or
material meaning it evaporates very very
quickly for a natural with the bergamot
Jif co
because it's made of a bit of naturals
and aroma chemicals mix combined it
actually lasts a little bit longer than
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the natural version so sometimes just
grab both like if you can afford to get
bergamot essential oil and the bergamot
jeffco I like to blend the two so it
smells real and the aroma chemicals kind
of drags it out a little bit it drags
out that scent so it lasts a little bit
longer the next one that you should get
your citruses lemon everybody's got to
have some sort of lemon again this one's
a cold-pressed lemon from Argentina I
love this is the juiciest lemon I think
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I've ever smelled it's like it smells
like somebody just cut up on a lemon and
just smacked you in the face with it you
can just feel the juiciness I love it
it's worked so well for summer scents
now opposite of lemon you're gonna want
some sort of orange oil now orange oil
can come in many many different ways you
can get sweet orange oil you can get
bitter orange oil you can get blood
orange oil there's just so many
different ones but if I were to choose
one just go with something generic and
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that's the sweet orange oil and that's
it's not bitter it's not overly blood
it's not it's it's just kind of like
your run-of-the-mill middle-of-the-road
orange oil it works great for any
application and then the last one you're
gonna want to get some sort of
grapefruit grapefruit oils again much
like the orange oil comes in many
different ways you can get pink
grapefruit you can get ruby red
grapefruit you can get white grapefruit
and that becomes a preference because
they all smell like grapefruit but
they're all a little bit different like
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the white grapefruit in particular to me
is a great top note it's very sharp it's
very persistent it's very sticky and in
your face and it works great for a top
note if you want to tone it down a bit
you can get pink grapefruit I think pink
grapefruit is a good middle-of-the-road
or you can get the ruby red which is the
sweetest of the grapefruits I chose pink
grapefruit as a you know a first starter
now the next category we're going to go
into more of the spicy
25:09
Gouri so spicy can be many different
things it could be spices like you would
find in a spice rack when you're cooking
it could be incense it could be a lot of
things so I kind of chose a lot of
different spices here that I think
everybody should have the one thing
probably the most commonly used spice
ingredient in perfumery is some sort of
cinnamon now you can get different
cinnamons you can get cinnamon bark
cinnamon leaf cinnamon absolute there's
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cinnamon tinctures but if I were to
choose one single cinnamon for the rest
of my life it would be cinnamon ik
aldehyde it smells identical to Simmonds
cinnamon and it's stronger so this
little tiny vial
I bought a heck of a long time ago and I
have it diluted down so I think a 10
percent I have another bottle this size
diluted it down to 10% because it's so
strong this is so strong and it's so
good though it's so good it just mimics
cinnamon perfectly and that's that would
26:12
be my choice for your cinnamon scent now
if you were gonna go with something a
little bit more gourmand spicy you can
get nutmeg oil nutmeg oil it's good it's
just it's a very generic spicy cinnamon
or not some in a very gourmand kind of
like you know off the spice right kind
of thing yeah it's good to have I would
say you don't need it but if you're a
fan of spicy sense it's a good thing to
have now the next one this is probably a
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must-have and I love it I love it and
for any spice category I think everybody
should have what's called allspice and
allspice is kind of like it's a mix of
all this that's basically what it is
it's a mix of all these spices blends
together so it's all these different
gourmand spices and peppers and it's
very it's just dry and Scratchy and at
the same time it's edible mouth watering
it's it's your all-in-one go-to spice
27:12
now there's also perfumers apprentice we
makes one what's called a spice you know
their house blended Accords and that
mimics allspice as well you
and get either or to be honest with you
they're both great perfect if you're
trying to go for that Viktor and Rolf
spice-bomb kind of feel that spiciness
another spice that I think is a must
have pink pepper
this one's called pink peppercorn oil
perfect top openings if you're a fan of
27:44
deer or savage love that you know that
very sharp zesty pink peppery vibe I
think everybody needs paint pepper in
their arsenal for sure
let's see now technically this this next
one's not a spice I didn't know where to
put this in any of these categories but
it's it's tobacco it's a tobacco leaf
now this one is a tobacco Absolut's
diluted pre diluted to 5% when you buy
it from this company and it's perfect
28:14
for that if you like tobacco accords or
tobacco cents especially in men's
fragrances this does wonderfully it's
it's not a dirty stinky tobacco it's
more of the it's a sweet almost a cherry
tobacco and this one was purchased from
perfume as apprentice and it was already
pretty diluted at 5% I actually have
this this bottle here I have another
large bottle as a backup I use it all
the time I love it a good spicy top note
28:45
so cardamom widely widely used in
perfumery so cardamom is definitely it's
it's a spicy kind of gourmand but at the
same time it's kind of uplifting as well
because it's used as a top to a middle
note cardamom is used in so many
fragrances it's so popular and
especially men's fragrances it's widely
used
everybody needs cardamom now a bottle
like this a 15 ml bottle it's about 15
bucks it won't break the bank but it's
29:17
something you have to have if you don't
have if you don't have cardamom I mean
come on you need it
the last spicy category or the last
spicy scent in the category I think you
should have as a first-time buy you need
frankincense and frankincense is just
essentially it's just incense
you can get it as an essential oil
there's many different things they call
it all the bottom or frankincense it's
the same thing just a different name and
that is more of you're not necessarily
smoky but the best way to describe it is
29:47
incense like those little incense sticks
you burn or if you're going to church
and you know people are walking down the
aisles with those urns and they're
blowing the smoke of incense smells just
like it so if incense is your thing grab
it but I think everybody should have
some sort of smokey incense in their
stash of you know must-haves this next
category it's a slim one because there's
so many of these and these are your I
don't want to say they're aquatics but
these are more of your sea Breezie ons
30:19
onik kind of materials the most widely
used one in perfumery is Calonne and
that is the one that's associated with a
lot of men's aquatic fragrances it's got
that not necessarily sea salty but it's
very fresh very breezy slightly slightly
sea watery I want to say it's kind of
like seaweed but you don't get seaweed
but you do get some sort of sea by but
it's very breezy sea an aquatic Kyl own
30:50
is probably the number one aquatics you
know aroma chemical used now if that's
not your thing let's say if you're
working on a women's perfume and you
want this same effect but you don't want
manly fresh you know breezy sea water
they make floral ozone this is a ten
percent solution I have a big bottle I
had to dilute it down to 10% because
it's so strong you have to dilute these
down to 10% before you use it this is
the floral version of this it's still
31:19
very open air breezy semi-aquatic and
wet but it has hints of floral in it and
particularly like lily of the valley
floral it so it's very fresh very open
very breezy great great thing to use in
women's perfumes so that brings us now
to the sweeter side of things the more
gourmand ingredients and if I were to
narrow it
to just three things the one thing
everyone's got to have is tonka bean
31:52
tonka bean is a ton of stuff it's very
sweet it's an excellent fixative it's an
excellent base notes
it's very gourmand but tonka bean can be
expensive if you buy the absolute I
actually have the absolute and in my
stash but I rarely I rarely use it cause
it's so darn expensive and I'm afraid to
use it all up so again a lot of these
retailers make synthetic versions of it
and perfumers apprentice comm did an
excellent job making their own tonka
32:23
bean accord and it works wonderful it
smells like the real deal I mean it's
probably not as pungent as a tonka bean
absolute or the real thing but it smells
identical tonka bean a cord from
perfumers apprentice is probably a good
first choice for your your first pick
and then the last two in the gourmand
category now you're looking at these
you're probably like wait a second these
don't look like you know bottles of
anything if you shake them up
these are solids these are crystals so
32:54
these need to be diluted into you know
little bottles like this or you could
actually just drop the crystals in your
perfume blend but I wouldn't recommend
that as as you're starting out so as a
first buy you're gonna want some sort of
vanilla notes and there's so many
different vanillas out there vanilla
absolutes but you can get ethyl vanillin
which is it's just like a little it's a
fine powder I swear to god it just looks
like if the cops were here they think I
have a vial of cocaine or something and
33:26
it's lovely but because it's a powder
you actually have to drop it in
something like this and dilute it in
alcohol so you could actually take a
dropper and use it in your blends but
ethyl vanillin super strong a great
vanilla note now the last gorman you
have to have you just have to have this
and this is ethyl maltol crystals again
these come in powdery like crystal form
probably can't see it in the camera but
this is this
33:58
your definite sweet note this is so
widely used in women's perfume and in
men's sometimes but more so women's
because a lot of women's perfumes can be
so Khloe Lee sweet its from the ethyl
maltol and this is it smells like cotton
candy it's I swear to god it's like
cotton candy sweet some people use it in
their blends to kind of give more of
like a caramel ik kind of syrupy sweet
but when you put it in a blend it comes
across as just sweet sugary cotton candy
and you should have it everybody should
have if you want to add sweetness to
34:30
your perfumes that's your first go-to
ingredient to try okay so this next
category is going to be your Amber's now
Amber's can be kind of two sides of the
coin you can get amber and a sense of
ambergris amber green or you can get
amber which is kind of like the fantasy
Accord it's like a made up of a cord if
you ever watch that movie Jurassic Park
where the old guy with the glasses that
built the park has his little walking
35:01
stick and he has the mosquito on a cane
and it's wrapped in this little red
orange glowing looking rock that's amber
and amber is just a petrified solid
piece of rock and it looks like glass
and but it doesn't smell like anything
but people started to make amber Accords
and they they call it a fantasy Accord
because people would be like well if
amber did have a scent what would it
smell like it would probably smell
something
maybe semi-sweet a little bit balsamic
35:32
definitely warm definitely wet so there
isn't really a true amber material that
you can buy I had to actually make my
own amber Accords but with that being
said you can still go to like perfumers
apprentice comm creating perfume calm
those folks there make a their own
version of an amber Accord and I think
everybody needs it everybody needs an
Amber Accord in their arsenal like if
36:04
you're a fan like a men's fragrance if
you're a fan of Dolce Gabbana's the one
and
that's heavily heavily heavily the bass
note is an Amber Accord that's what
gives it that warm resinous kind of you
know feeling to it you need that sort of
amber Accord in there so just go to
perfumers apprentice or Creighton
perfume browse their Amber's they make
different amber Accords some are cleaned
somewhere a little bit warmer and just
pick any any will do so the next two for
36:35
the amber category would be more of your
ambergris but these one it's more of
like an Broxson so again these are sold
in crystal or solid form you probably
can't see it in the camera but again you
have to dilute these in order to use it
so once you dilute it it comes out into
a liquid form you can use it in a
dropper so ambergris comes in two forms
actually a lot of different forms you
37:04
can get generic and Broxson crystals and
that's the synthetic you know
reconstruction of what an ambergris
would smell like and Broxson anybody
that's you know starting to make their
own perfumes probably has heard that
term before and Broxson it's it's in a
lot of things in modern-day perfumes in
the past ten years your savage Versace
Dylan blue you know so many are what
they call em Brock's and balms because
they use this so heavily in their
perfumes it smells great I love it it's
37:35
like it's it's just a warm pillowy
sweetness without it being too sweet and
it gives us this nice salty sea and
Malak kind of vibe to it so that I
actually have two kinds of amber and
Broxson crystals you can get Firmenich
makes one called settle locks and or you
can just get the basic generic and
Broxson crystals and both I would say
are very very similar set of locks is a
more refined a little bit more delicate
38:05
it's it smells high-end to me
it's sweeter and a little bit more
high-end
I prefer side locks between the two but
this is more expensive so if you had to
get one of these two and you're like I
need in Broxson in my arsenal I just
need it just get two just to get the
regular and Broxson crystals they'll be
it'll be just fine okay so this next
category we're going to talk about it's
a slim category these are kind of more
of your manlier sense so I kept these
38:38
two to a minimal one is going to be your
kind of Massey sense and that would be
your oak Moss so oak Moss super
expensive but it's also heavily
restricted in the perfumery world like
there's ifr a restrictions meaning you
can't use X amount percent of it in your
perfume concentrate because they think
it's it's toxic so you can get oak Moss
absolute but you won't be able to use a
39:11
lot of it because of the restrictions so
again the company at Java down made oak
Moss Chipko which is their synthetic
version of it and it smells wonderful I
love it it's it's one of those things
like if you're gonna get one oak Moss
and just have it for your arsenal and
just have the one it would be okay
Austin Co it's amazing and then the next
one that I would put in this scent of
the manly kind of animalic mossy things
you need some sort of leather sense
something that would just leather or
39:42
suede and there's so many different ones
out there but the company iff made one
called
suede or all and it's perfect it's it's
it's suede it's leather and it's it's a
reconstruction of what would smell like
natural leather suede but it's all aroma
chemicals and it's it's it's soft it's
smooth and it's not it's not overly
animalic but suede are all from iff is
40:15
very strong it's super strong so I have
just this small little bot this little
tiny vial right here because I had I had
to dilute it to a 10% solution just to
use it so this little tiny four ml
bottle that you can probably buy for
like six dollars is going to last you
like over a year
so the last category I want to go over
is your green fresh green notes now
green could mean a lot of things to a
40:46
lot of people but it's usually leafy
it's usually grassy so you can grab
yourself what's called violet leaf
absolute it's pretty I don't want to say
it's inexpensive but it's obtainable if
you're a first time for femur and you're
grabbing your first-time ingredients you
can probably pick this up violet leaf
absolute here's a 10 per 10 percent
solution when you buy it it comes in a
small tiny little vial like this and
it's thick it's syrupy you try to pour
it it just kind of slowly sludges out
41:18
because it's so thick and then you
dilute it to a 10% solution where it's
easily used in a pipette so violet leaf
absolute is very uplifting it's very
fresh it's very green but it also smells
very wet so if that's kind of your thing
if you like that green kind of leafy
that was just after the rain violet leaf
absolute does that wonderfully now if
you're not quite sure what kind of leaf
I mean there's so many different green
leaves out there you can get you know
violet leaf there's birch leaf there's
41:49
all these you know other kind of leaves
stem I think there's a IFF mix one
called stem own or something like that
and that's another great one so but if
you don't know which green leaf you want
to get again perfumers apprentice
knocked it out of the park with this one
and they made their own in-house green
leaf accord where it doesn't sway
towards any particular leaf in general
doesn't it doesn't smell like violently
if it doesn't smell like birch leaf it
doesn't smell like grass it just smells
green and when I smell it's like oh I
42:21
smell a little bit of grass I smell
fresh leaves it smells wet it's very
fresh very uplifting and if I were to
choose one aroma chemical to buy that
captures just a green note in general it
would be green leaf a cord from perfuse
apprentice and then the last one in the
green category now this is a single
aroma chemical and it's strong it's it's
pretty strong it's your sister II
hexanol
and this is your green grass notes it's
42:53
not a leafy note so the best way to
describe sistera hexanol is let's say
you just mowed your lawn and you have
this giant bag of long you know lawn
clippings from your low and more and you
stuck your head in and took a whiff
that's what this smells like it's green
grass freshly cut green grass now I lied
there's one more category but it's an
honorable mention so this one doesn't
necessarily fit into a lot of these
categories but I think it's one
everybody should have and it's more of a
43:25
balsamic category but it can it can be
used in many other categories than just
balsamic and that would be your benzoin
this one in particular I hand selected
for you guys because regular it smells
so good regular benzoin or benzoin is a
very very thick syrupy material this
particular one is made by iff and it's
their reconstitution of benzine but it
43:59
uses real benzoin but that they also put
other aroma chemicals in there so it's
not so thick if you ever got a hold of
real like benzoin like in a bottle like
this you can see it's pretty liquidy but
real bends when you go like this and it
sludges out slowly and things like that
are just a nightmare when you're trying
to use like a pipette and you're trying
to pick it out and then you're trying to
push it out and it's just barely
squeezing out and then your pipette gets
so gooey because it's so gummy benzoin
44:31
they call it benzine a Philly AK 63 from
iff is a friendlier version to use so
it's not so sticky and it smells just
like benzoin now I get a lot of vanilla
tones slightly balsamic it's sweet it's
definitely sweet but it's also resinous
and this actually could have fell into
the amber category that we talked about
earlier
because benzoin is actually part of the
45:03
red amber accord that I mentioned
earlier and this is a big player in that
Accord but by itself it does wonders if
you want to add some sweetness to your
bass notes if you want to add something
sweeter just a little bit more resinous
and it's a great great thing to have
alright we did it we covered all the
aroma chemicals and materials that I
thought you should have as a first time
buy as a DIY perfumer and like I said
there's hundreds and hundreds of aroma
45:36
chemicals that you can buy out there but
these were hand selected as a good
beginners to start playing with so you
get a feel of each a little scent from
every category that way you have some
things to play with for like different
top notes different middle different
base notes different categories
different scent styles and this is a
good selection to start you off with so
in the description below I'm gonna list
all these out again and then I'll also
link it to the probably the three or
four websites where I would buy them so
you can kind of pick and choose and
46:07
comparison shop with prices and just buy
what's you know best for your needs so
now let's move on to looking at storage
of all this stuff
don't them alcohol not the kind that you
drink
that's your perfumers alcohol you're
definitely going to want to to pick this
stuff up you're gonna need it
perfumers alcohol specifically SDA forty
46:49
be 200 proof you need 200 proof trust me
don't get anything other 200 proof this
is what the pros use this is what you're
going to need keep a lot of it on hand
trust me you're going to need it
now me personally I like a discreet
storage because I perfume in my dining
room and I just do it when I need to on
the fly I use these two rolling carts
that are on wheels so I can wheel these
carts out into whatever room I want to
use I could throw them in the back of my
truck if I wanted to do but the
traditional method would be people would
47:27
build a desk they would have what's
called a perfumers Oregon a specific
seat desk table all these beautiful
shelves around it with all their
materials listed in front of them and
it's kind of like an organ like a piano
player and they can just grab off the
shelf as they see it my setup because I
want it discreet and I don't want my
place looking like a perfumery place is
I have these rolling carts so anytime I
open up one of these it's like cool
here's all my powders on my caps here's
all my middle notes my florals all in
47:58
one drawer here's all my aroma chemicals
and just oddballs is what I call it
these are all my delusions and as you
can see it's just everything is just
neatly organized in the wrong drawer
here's the drawer just full of bass
notes only here's a drawer just full of
top notes here's all my Accord blends
that I've created and it just works it
doesn't mean you have to go this route
this is the route that I chose because I
want a discrete setup and so when
48:30
somebody comes into my house they don't
see bottles everywhere they don't see a
Roma Chemical sitting out the place
isn't stinking like a mess they look
like normal pieces of furniture and it
works but you don't have to go that
route you can you can build a desk you
can have a perfumers organ with all your
shelves and make it look beautiful this
is the route that I chose you can choose
how you want to
so let's talk equipment so you want to
start perfuming at home you kind of have
49:06
a general idea of what you may need but
you're not quite sure and you want a
little bit of guidance so I'm gonna go
through the must-haves the necessities
that you're going to definitely want to
have and you probably can't make stuff
without it so the first thing you're
gonna want to get is a scale I mean this
one right here probably may be overkill
for a first-time buyer this scale right
here ran me a hundred bucks it wasn't
that bad I actually have three scales
49:35
this is now my third scale when I first
started perfuming I didn't know what to
get so I went on Amazon I got like a
cheap $20.00 scale realized it wasn't
very accurate wasn't very adequate so I
moved up to a $50 scale realized again
wasn't cutting the mustard this one did
me pretty good but the other two that I
bought previously we're a good starter
scale just to get me in the right
direction but the point is you're gonna
need a scale if you're going to do the
drop by drop method which is fine when
50:06
people first start off they have their
notebook and they're just kind of
writing the other note so I'm gonna add
one drop of this I'm gonna add two drops
of that but you're not going to be very
accurate it's not gonna be very precise
because now let's say you make a blend
and you're like okay now I want to you
know make a bottle of this blend you
know I want to make five bottles I want
to make ten bottles of it what are you
gonna do you're gonna sit there and be
like counting 300 drops of this 500
drops of that it just it's not feasible
so when you get a scale you want to
50:36
measure things by weight and that's why
the scale is so important because every
time you place one drop of your chemical
in the beaker it will tell you the
weight in grams so when choosing the
scale there's two things that you're
going to want to look for one is what's
the overall capacity of the scale how
many grams maximum can it go up to this
one in particular goes up to 200 grams
suits me just fine for all my you know
tinkering and all my experimental blends
if I ever wanted to make a gigantic
canister of something this would not do
51:08
but for me right now it does fine
the next thing that you're gonna want to
look for is what is the accuracy and
readout meaning how precise can it be is
it something that measures like 0.01
grams accuracy is it 0.001 accuracy like
how precise will the scale get this
particular one goes down from point zero
zero one accuracy now some of the ones
from Amazon that I bought that I spoke
to earlier that were like twenty to
51:40
forty fifty dollars they claim they do
point zero zero one accuracy I wouldn't
believe it from a forty dollar scale to
be honest with you maybe it would read
it out I don't know how accurate was as
far as counting that down to that very
fine grain of a percentage basically so
the next thing from your scale you're
definitely going to need pipettes now
pipettes you can actually get two kinds
you can get your disposable plastic ones
I have a gigantic bag sitting in the
52:11
corner I personally don't like using
plastic pipettes one because it's it's a
waste of plastic they're disposable
you're throwing it out and if you want
to be good for the environment I chose
to do glass now the downside with glass
this this is actually just one canister
of my pipettes I actually have over a
hundred of these and they're a pain in
the ass to wash because every time you
use them and with the plastic pipettes
there are a one-time-use you throw it
away you drop it you use it when you're
52:42
done with your perfumery session you
take the pipettes you throw them away
you throw out the plastic ones the glass
ones are reusable so you can pop the
tops off and now you're just left with
the glass but you still got to clean the
gunk out and that's what the
pain-in-the-ass part is so every time
I'm done with a perfumery session I you
know I I toss these all into a giant
canister of you know alcohol and soap
and I just let them sit for hours to
dissolve all the oils and then I got to
rinse them off and clean them out and
stuff like that it's a pain in the ass
but for me the glass pipette just feels
53:14
cleaner I just like using glass pipettes
it's up to you if you want to do glass
or if you want to do plastic whichever
you prefer either way you're going to
need pipette
as far as pipette size they come in
short ones medium long doesn't matter
grab the small ones if you want whatever
is cheapest the only time you need a
long pipette is unless you're going to
have you know these giant beakers that
are like yay tall and you're really
trying to get in there small ones are
gonna be just fine which brings me now
to the next part you're going to
53:47
definitely need beakers and this one has
got so many fingerprints on it
so beakers beakers beakers your beakers
are your friend I have I don't really
have a lot of beakers I think I have
like seven or eight of them and I chose
to get these 50ml ones perfect size for
working with small perfume blends that
like experimental blends again you're
probably just doing a drop by drop
measuring the things on the scale a
small beaker fits in here perfectly and
54:18
one I've never filled one of these all
the way up to the max with you know
perfume concentration it's usually way
down here so but they're perfect for
experimental blends they're small
they're not bulky they work well with
small droppers so you can go on Amazon
and get like a five pack of these 50 MLS
like twelve bucks I mean why not just do
it the next thing you're going to want
to get is empty glass bottles they come
54:48
in different kinds clear cobalt green
amber the only big difference is like I
like the clear ones personally because
you can see through it and see how much
you know stuff you have left how much
juice is in there but you do want to
make sure you have some amber ones on
stash or colored ones depending on where
you store your materials if you're
storing your stuff that's close to like
on a shelf that has a lot of sunlight
sunlight could actually damage your
materials if it's in a clear bottle
because it deteriorates and just makes
55:18
it age faster this will protect you from
your UV rays Sun lights and will protect
your material contents inside but not
every material reacts that way usually
it's going to be like your more volatile
like citrus like bergamot
in orange those are very not UV ready
friendly so those are the ones you're
gonna want to put in something like this
all your other materials you're gonna be
fine with a glass a glass bottle I would
say to start off with get the 15 ml
55:50
bottles these are perfect for storing
like if you're gonna make your own blend
of something if you make your own rose
Accord if you make your own amber Accord
and you make it and you can fill this up
and you have your your own accord now
store it in your bottle that you could
use it any time for your next perfume
session now with the bottles though the
cap is important I cannot stress this
enough the cap itself you're gonna want
to get what's called the poly cone liner
cap and I'm not sure if you could
56:21
actually see inside there but there's
basically it looks like a little
funneled cone in there and what that
does is creates a perfect seal airtight
for your material inside do not and I
repeat do not store your materials in
those bottles that have those little
dropper screw caps they have the dropper
built-in you're gonna ruin your material
I made that mistake my very first time
buying all my you know my first supplies
I thought I would be so efficient by
56:54
having the the little droppers built-in
so I wouldn't have to waste you know
extra droppers I ruined so much material
by that because they're not airtight and
I found that out the hard way one day
you know I live in Southern California
these heat waves in the summertime just
started coming up and I realized that my
bottles the the the contents inside were
slowly going down and what's happening
was the heat was actually evaporating
the contents because the seal on the top
of the dropper wasn't a perfect seal and
they never are so you not only lose your
57:25
materials but a lot of your diluted
materials like if you have you know your
Alda hides like this diluted to 10% in a
dropper bottle all the alcohol that was
that was in there that was diluted it
slowly evaporates and leaves you with a
bottle of an unknown dilution like this
is aldehyde c12 M&A in ten percent if
this was in a dropper top bar
and I left it out for probably five
months the the alcohol would slowly
evaporate and it would no longer be a
10% solution I wouldn't even know what
57:58
the solution would be because the
alcohol had left a lot of it so don't
get the dropper top bottles get the poly
cone liners it's a perfect seal you
won't regret it trust me
and another thing you're probably going
to want a lot of times you're going to
be making a lot of these blends and
you're gonna want to test them because
of course you're gonna make a bland ring
like okay I want to smell it I want to
spray it on me well how do I do that you
58:27
can get these little 10 ml atomizers and
Amazon sells in dirt cheap I think I
bought like a box of a hundred for 20
bucks and they're perfect for holding on
to your perfume experiments so as I make
a blend and once I'm done I'll dilute it
into you know my perfumers alcohol make
it like an EDP concentration and I'll
fill one of these up shake it up boom
boom boom boom spray it on and you can
smell your your concoction right away
and then because it's a 10 ml bottle it
59:00
holds enough juice that'll probably last
you a week so if you smell it one day
you know smell it again the next two or
three days see how the perfume changes
over time and you need to do that with
you know an atomizer like this so
atomizers are super important so with
atomizers for your test blends now of
course if you do finish a perfume that
you're happy with and you're like I've
done it I've cracked the code I made my
first perfume I think it's perfect I
want to bottle it now I want it to
59:30
Savior for myself you're going to want
to get empty perfume bottles and again
there's a ton of companies out there
online that sell these you can get them
relatively inexpensive from like skb
bottling company sells them and they
sell them in different sizes different
shapes some are round some are square
some are tall like you can choose the
colors and stuff like that or you can
just go on Amazon I know like this
particular one is like a little bit it's
a little 30ml bottle comes with
01:00:01
I bought a I think it was a five or a
ten pack for 20 bucks and I thought that
was a steal so anytime I make a
fragrance and I want to gift it to
somebody like a friend a loved one or a
family member like hey I made you a
fragrance I usually just use one of
these it's perfect the last thing you're
going to need as far as equipment and
this is probably a no-brainer you're
going to need plastic and you're
01:00:33
probably like BK why do I need plastic
cuz this crap is messy let me tell you
depending on where you're actually going
to be working some people are fortunate
enough to have a dedicated room for
perfumery and they might have this
beautiful organ with shelves and they
sit down at a desk dedicated to
perfumery me personally I don't have
that luxury I do it where I can wherever
I can
like right now I'm sitting at my dining
room table filming this video with all
my things and what I'll do but before
01:01:05
after before every session I just get
just a basic sheet of plastic it's the
same plastic that you see painters use
when they put it on the floor and
they're getting ready to paint a room
and I cut large squares and you're gonna
want to lay it out because you do not
want any of this stuff touching your
wood table or your metal table or your
plastic table because essential oils
aroma chemicals will kill your table
I made them you know in the beginning I
made that mistake where I didn't have
any plastic and I noticed any time I
01:01:36
accidentally dropped a left you know
drop something on the table like just
the slightest drop and I didn't wipe it
up the next day it would stain
permanently it would eat away rot at the
wood permanently protect your table
unless you have a dedicated table that
you really don't care about if it gets
messy or whatever get a piece of plastic
even something as cheesy as like
cellophane saran wrap like that cooking
wrap and just lay it down just don't
01:02:06
leave a mess with the oils on the wood
the last equipment that you will need
for your perfume making
is a notebook a notebook is essential I
mean how else are you gonna keep track
of all your experiments I mean like this
one right here has all these ingredients
and all these little checks and it just
tells me all my different trials my
failures my wins every time I made
something how many drops I used was it a
win I put a star next to it if it failed
01:02:37
I'd cross it out and go to the next one
and then to the next one and you'll go
through so many blends within a day it's
crazy like in a given day I'll probably
go through maybe four or five trial
blends and then I'll be like okay that's
enough for today and you know and then
I'll start again tomorrow but you need
to keep a ledger and keep track of what
you're doing because if you don't how
are you gonna remember how many drops or
how many grams you added of what you
know ingredient if you don't have a
notebook you can do like you know Excel
01:03:07
spreadsheets that's perfect especially
if you have like Google Google sheets is
online I use Google sheets now I
actually have this as kind of like my
pre my prelim experiments and then if if
something goes well I'll transfer what
was you know what went well into a
Google sheet and then I'll take it from
there with actual formulas and
percentages so but you definitely want
to start off with some sort of notebook
some sort of ledger to keep track of
your your experiment so you remember
so with all that being said I hope you
01:03:41
found this video useful and it was
packed full of information that you
needed to get you off on the right foot
to make your own perfumes at home so
it's a little bit less daunting a little
bit less scary and it kind of leads you
into that path of now you kind of know
where to go so you'll find a lot of
links in the description below where all
these things that I've listed out where
you can buy them some of the aroma
chemicals and materials essential oils
the ones that I picked out I've listed
them all out on the bottom so we'll see
you soon
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