00 Civic Rigidhorse 21.5" 120W Curved LED Light Bar Install

00 Civic Rigidhorse 21.5" 120W Curved LED Light Bar Install

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Language: English

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Number of phrases: 521

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00:00
so I was contacted on YouTube by an LED manufacturer and they wanted to know if I could test one of their products out so of course I said yes so let's see what's inside mmm so right here is an LED light bar manufactured by a rigid horse they're a company based out in China and they're thinking about opening up a market out in America so they wanted to get some people to review their products and they
00:31
were nice enough to ask me how cool is that this thing's rated at a 120 watts it's 21 and a half inches so that's um 40 LEDs 3 watts of peace there Philips brand LEDs it comes out to about 9,000 max lumens and a color temperature is 6 K so it's nice and white and it'll even work off of a 9-volt battery you notice some of them don't light up that's just the battery if you use the 10 volts that they recommend all of them light up but
01:02
it's kind of cool you could power this entire thing off of a little tiny battery I don't think you'd do that well with a spotlight this is their curved model and it's got its the combo spot flood so they have the spot in the middle and the floods on the end but you know nice simple shipping and whatnot it uh it doesn't come with a harness so imma show you guys how we make a harness I have an extra one from another bar I
01:34
had but and it also comes with some brackets so let's take a look okay so here's the the funky-looking brackets that they give you and you can mount on them it allows the light bar to be adjusted more securely because it actually I think it mounts the two separate locations on the light bar so that you can mount it and then this is the pivot angle that you can lock it down so you can get the perfect angle pretty neat and it's seen a bracket like that before and it comes with some hardware you got long bolts small bolts washers and allen
02:05
keys to adjust it all so here's the beauty right here look at that looks a lot nicer in person mmm pretty nice looking pretty big pretty cool so it's pretty neat so go take it outside and take a look at it in the daylight so here's the Beast you notice on the top I already have a 51 inch LED
02:35
light bar by year life and that one's 250 watts that has 55 watt Cree LEDs this one obviously has a few less LEDs and they're also lower wattage so in brightness these aren't going to compare but you'd want to compare this to something of you know the same size but will still check out how the the curved angle is compared to that later when it gets dark out but yeah here it is curved pretty cool you put that on there in it
03:07
it'll fit a lot better with the body lines and everything so you know if I wanted to mount it up on the bumper I could let me kind of neat but this video might take a bit of a turn let's taking a look at it and the size it's kind of perfect I'm thinking going underneath there's a lot of space back here a lot of space so my idea is to see if I can mount it back here
03:42
and see if it'll still look good hopefully I don't have to like move the license plate up or anything er if it'll show right bug you know I'll see how it goes but if everything goes well I'm gonna put this on the Honda yes dark out perfect time to test this up bad boy so here's light bar and I have it hooked up to my little relay set up for now so first let's turn on the headlights something interesting about LED light bars no matter what voltage you put into
04:14
them as long as what it's rated for it never dims with a standard automotive headlights the more voltage they get the brighter they are so right now these headlights are going to be kind of dim when you turn the car on and the alternator is running they get brighter but with an LED light bar doesn't matter if it's all on or off it'll be the same amount of brightness so these are some Sylvania silver stars right here these are just the low beams and now let's see how the light bar
04:45
compares not much of a competition huh the difference it's got a nice beam to it too it's kind of cool you know for a little light bar - this one's only 21 inches that's pretty nice I can't complain with that that's pretty badass that's only 120 watts right there and it's pretty bright test 2 is going to be a little unfair just because of what this thing's up against I'm going
05:29
to test this 120 watt 21 inch 40 LEDs light bar against the one I have on my Jeep right now this one's rated at 9,000 lumens this one's rated at 20 4500 possibly so you know this the roof light bar is about double so this is very unfair but let's just see how they they do there's that one and the roof
06:08
still that's not too bad that thing's still putting up a decent fight oh ah you literally can't look right now it actually hurts okay that's amazing but when you fall into the beam you can kind of see the brightness of them that's pretty cool oh wow though there's so much worse than high beams holy crap but that's that's rather impressive that's not too bad especially for the UH the rating it's a
06:39
I think this thing will do awesome a lot huh all right so you seen what that little light bar can do now let's get around to the fun part actually mounting this thing so I figured this going to be easiest if we take the entire front bumper off this guy it's actually not that difficult it just has a bunch of these little clips that you just pop out and I'll show you how to do that like a pic cool and then underneath there's some Phillips head screws and some irregular bones so start popping these out
07:25
is one now she parks on the other side yes see that funny there you go all right so we got the whole front bumper cover off now we can get to the important parts so if we come down here there is a metal bar that sticks out a little bit that I might be able to use to mount off with it I have to get the light bar to fit into this bottom slot here so I have to mount it here in some
08:02
fancy way for now I want to see if I can mount it somewhere in there and see if I still got the adjustments that I need something that I noticed though right now about the only negative that I'm seeing about this light bar is the way that the bracket is designed the wire gets in the way so when you go to push this back it starts cutting up the wire that kind of sucks but besides that I haven't seen anything else bad so bad wire placement everything else is awesome put your light bar up there and
08:35
make sure it's centered in the middle I was basing that off of the the middle line right here splits it perfectly on the middle and I'm lining it up with this crossmember thing so put it up here and Mark where you're going to drill on both sides drill her out okay so once you got your holes drilled you'll have to get some bolts if the ones provided do not work you'll have to pick them up at a hardware store or find some laying around for what I'm going through since I can't get a bolt in here I'm gonna
09:05
have to buy some longer ones so we're going to do is measure your gap that you're going to go through and then add like anywhere from a half to three-quarters of an inch because ideally you want to washer on each side you're going to go through the bracket and you're also gonna have a nut you got to make sure that you have the room to get it all in there so I picked up two and like this is between like a half inch and a three-quarter bolt because it's metric just because that's what camp the kits I figured I'll just get some metric bolts so you're going to slide them through your holes with washers and everything
09:37
and mount this up suit it looks like take a look so let's see the bolt and washer go down the bottom you want to find the biggest washer that you can what this is doing is spreading out the load that the bolt is applying to all the metal so the bigger the bolt the more the metal can kind of have a break just spreads it out and then the washer up top is just so that that doesn't put too much pressure on the other bracket has plenty of you know clamping force
10:09
all that good stuff same on this side now this is kind of soft metal so if you really start cranking on these it'll actually start to squeeze the metal together so you know just tighten it until it's you know definitely on there I got nylon locking nuts so that way they don't back off easily but if you can't find them you can also do like Loctite or something like that you just want to make sure that if it is a little loose that is not going to vibrate free so now you can see how these brackets operate so you'll notice
10:39
that they can pivot up and down to where we need it and then we can lock it down with the allen keys so just taking a look at the test fit and it's absolutely perfect you couldn't get any better if you tried look at that it's just oh my god that's awesome it just fits in there like it was meant to be that is so cool oh man this is awesome I'm loving the hell out of this thing right now I really am I'm excited alright cool
11:11
I start wiring alright so LED wiring for light bars it's actually not that difficult the most simple circuit that you could have is to take your light bar and wire it directly to the battery so you have your red and black just go straight to red and black but there's a problem you want to turn it on and off so you have a switch well the problem is the switch might not be rated for the kind of amperage that your light bar is running for instance if you had one like this that's 250 watts if you divide
11:45
that into amps it's something kind of high something you don't want running through an interior switch so how do you fix that problem easy the answer is in relays a relay is a switch that works off of a switch so you're gonna have an itty-bitty little tiny switch tell a bigger switch to do the work for it so this will sit under the hood away from you it's rated at 40 amps so this is a 40 amp switch and then this guy doesn't have to take any of the juice
12:16
this one takes just enough juice for the light to light and tell it hey turn on this guy will turn everything on for you that's why relays are important they let you not burn up interior switches so it's really simple right now we have a positive and a negative that'll go to the battery and the positive is fused and I'll tell you how to pick fuses in a second and that runs in the relay so this is the main power feed for the relay and then the relay will take that power and dump it through these wires
12:46
over here to your light bar and the relay turns on and off through this switch which also gets power and ground from the battery terminals so if that doesn't make any sense I'll show you a wiring diagram in case that's your fancy let's take a look ski here this right here is a simple diagram for the light bar so your light bar over here at the top right is going to be grounded I'm probably going to run it either to the battery or somewhere and it's going to get its positive feed from terminal 87
13:17
on the other relay that is the output signal the 30 is the positive feed so that's going to go to the battery right there now you're switched source is 85 and 86 it doesn't matter what direction you go in but one side has to get positive go through and get grounded you should also have some kind of load on here the switch usually isn't enough to be a load but if you have like a little light or something you can also add a resistor to the switch so that way there's just a little bit of load so the relay doesn't
13:48
burn up or anything like that but it's really simple basically the path goes through here and it should interrupted by 85 and 86 so once that's gapped this is gapped and turns it on that's really simple so all you got to do is run your wires to where you need to okay now on to the safety aspect about picking your fuse so this is really simple this is the way that I did take a look at what your light bar or whatever device you're installing is rated at so this is rated a 120 watts now watts is just volts and amps
14:18
multiplied together to get this number so to get a different number you can divide it by the other it's like a little triangle so if we take 120 watts I'm divided by the lowest Valarie voltage you ever expect to see which you can say twelve point six but twelve is just simpler and safer and easier for this measurement 120 watts divided by 12 volts gets you 10 amps so this light bar will draw at the most 10 amps at 12 volts so if we come down here and multiply 10 by one-and-a-half for a
14:48
safety factor you get a 15 amp fuse and you can do that for just about whatever the hell you want it's really simple so that's how you find out what kind of fusion want now we figured all that out let's get to the mounting of all this crap okay so here's how I'm running everything I got the the relay bolted down to this airbox bolt here because it's near the battery and faces where I need to so that's cool and if you need to you can pop the relay off of this little bracket and we have all our wires
15:21
run we got the battery terminals they've got plenty of room to reach where we need to our switch goes off that way into the cab I'll show you that in a second and our light bar lights go under here and run along a wire harness I found that goes in the same direction so I just ran that the same way that that one goes all the way out to the front don't snip your wires until everything's run and you're sure everything's going to fit so I ran them out here
15:51
cut them strip them and I'm going to solder them together and put heat shrink tubing on them that's the best way to attach wires together but crimp connectors just they rust out after a while they can rattle loose they're not that great this is honestly the best way you can go electrical tape study heat rank is a good second now so fronts just got to get soldered up if you come up to this spot over here or our wire harness goes I popped out one of the the plugs this guy right here just get like a pic or something a
16:23
flathead behind them and just pop them out real easy the way I decided which one I wanted was by going inside the car so if you come down here you got to look around and figure out where an available plug is and if you notice there's a big pad across this entire thing like a cover but I noticed that there was a little hole there so I could actually get to that plug easy so I just popped that one out because it's the easiest to get to so I'm going on my water I might run it on the other side of this fuse
16:55
panel box instead but then the last step is to figure out which one you want to use up here for the interior like I said I want to put it here because it will be it'll be harder to hit accidentally up here to get this plug out this is what the piece looks like and if you notice there's an indent at the bottom where you can put a screw driver I think that's the way it's supposed to come out cause it's sitting there like that and you get a flat head at the bottom because there's an indent so you get
17:27
digging in there carefully if you don't want more the surfaces or anything and you can pop it out there's a clip on this side and just a holder on that side so just pry on there and then see if you can wiggle it out it'll come out eventually now to fish this up to the top I took advantage of this connector right here I unclipped it and I fed this end from the top down to the bottom clipped it and then pulled it up so that way it's up here that's an easy way to do that now the way that I'm going to finally
17:58
install this switch is that I'm going to drill a hole or whatever size I get switch into here so I'm going to reuse this plug put the plug back in with a switch on it I picked up a switch from an auto parts store just a simple toggle switch and it's a got a light so woke that up later but I am I traced that on some cardboard to figure out how big it needs to be and then I traced that template onto here so now we're going to cut it up with a
18:30
dremel so I just got a simple little cutting wheel right here does really well on plastic just take your time try and go a little smaller than what you think it's going to be that way you can open it up later if you have to so let's see if I can do this nicely took a little bit of work but it's not too bad pretty clean alright let's pop it on ok so here's everything hooked up I got the
19:00
the wire run through there and I just got some Spade terminals on the switch everything's hooked up properly for me my black terminal goes to ground the power goes to white and the blue one which goes to terminal 86 I think that's the accessory one so with all three of those hooked up the circuit can be completed the label emanates along with the light bar neat so pop that in there and we're golden let's finish
19:30
up the wiring part of the installation by soldering everything together oh yeah nice and pretty that's what I call a good jab alright finish this up alright final step is on the battery side over here so we got our negative terminal hooked up we got our positive terminal hooked up and that's been at least we have our 15 amp fuse so everything is soldered wired and run all right
20:02
so final installation make sure that you zip tie the wire out of the way from my particular case I wanted to make sure that wasn't going to touch the radiator at all so I have one zip tie here and also have one zip tie here with some pressure on it so that it doesn't come in contact with the radiator now we got one down here just to keep it from falling off so there we go check it out now I'm I flip
20:33
the light bar around so the wires on this side so I can adjust it I need to and the wires not going to get crust on the bracket anymore so that's not a big deal now I think it's time to put the bumper comfor back on so do you see it because I don't there it is meet now I give you guys a drive - but oh man
21:23
thing is so bright Jesus next tell me that ain't the coolie our nice real nice alright so everything's hooked up so here's our wonderful low beams right here they look gorgeous don't they there's our high beams here's a live bar now it's hard to tell turn the headlights off that's just a light bar
22:33
right there that's actually pretty decent and the way that I got it aimed it's high enough that the hot spot on the road isn't super visible and you can see pretty much everywhere it's not too bad I like it a lot more like this now you can actually and see so I'm pretty happy with that that's pretty baller I'll take some pictures side by side so you can see what this thing really looks like this video mode doesn't do do it justice got a little
23:07
into your leg too so here's my friends 2.5 liter Comanche on the right he mounted a similar sized ear life brand LED light bar on the grill as well so I figured I'd just show this clip for fun where you are on the beam it depends where you're at in the beam because right now that one looks brighter you come down here this one looks brighter so it's a combo I think so just to see
23:39
what it looks like so there you have it it's my installation of my 21 and a half inch 120 watt 9000 lumen LED light bar so big shout out to wazoo from Ridgid horse for contacting me and asking me if I wanted to check out their product so I tell you what this light bar is awesome definitely tell you to go and get it
24:14
it's cheap to 70 whole dollars that's including shipping that is a steal seriously is see ya go check them out I definitely recommend them hope you enjoyed I know I will

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