Building Packard Model Pt2 1/24 1930 Speedster

Building Packard Model Pt2 1/24 1930 Speedster

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00:07
hello welcome dance model works today today we are on part two of our classic packard boat tail speedster and as I explained last time this kit was started by my dad probably at least 33 35 years ago in part one we painted the chassis semi-gloss black and we painted the
00:38
engine parts so now we're gonna start working on the basically the lower floor pan and the body okay here we go we're ready to start painting these we have two main parts we've got the main body and then we've got the hood I've already washed these parts in some just regular
01:09
dish detergent some hot water then I made sure I rinse them off very very thoroughly main reason for doing that is to make sure there's no finger print grease on them and even if you're taking the parts right out of the box so it was a good idea to give them a wash because you never know they might have some old reliefs on them I have the mark and I have them mounted on some wooden blocks and this is looks like an old pill
01:41
container or something like that the old Badger 250 is ready to go I've had that for probably about 35 years and we're going to be using testers bright light blue okay we're ready to paint we'll turn on the air and turn on the blower now turning our attention to the underside we can see that in the middle
03:26
here there's a little placard that has copy or a monogram models incorporated all rights reserved and we've got a couple of ejector pin marks there so let's see if we can get those out I'm planning on painting this wood underneath here but so important that it be perfect she would just look nice if
03:56
it was fully detailed ejector pin marks are either sunken we raised in this case they're sunken so a little smear of putty it's pretty much the only way we're gonna take care of these if I'm careful when I sand most of the
04:38
molded in wood grain should survive all right now the putty has had a chance to dry I'm gonna scrape as much off with my chisel blade before I come at it with the sandpaper and we're sanding the putty now remember I don't want to I
05:13
don't want to smooth as a baby's bottom here I want want it to be rough because there's already some wood grain here and I want to I want but the areas I've prepared to blend in with that as I mentioned in part one this part of the body was painted 30 odd years ago and I don't even know what color paint was used in it and it was a dark blue
05:45
unfortunately the undersides of the fenders weren't caught by the spray paint so I've got some Tamiya blue I'm pretty sure it used to be called royal blue so let's see how close this is and actually is pretty close given that we shouldn't really have anywhere on the top of the body this new blue coming up against the old blue I'm gonna paint the
06:23
entire underside of the defender with this new blue so it shouldn't be too noticeable that the Blues are different no we're just finishing up the underside here this piece here I'm going to be painting either steel or silver that's the fuel tank really happy with way this to me a paint went on sometimes to me a paint goes on streaky and it requires a
06:57
second coat this is going on really nice and solid very very happy with it okay we set this aside to dry as you can see I'm painting testers steel on the fuel tank that's what this has hanging down they debated whether I was gonna make it silver or whether I was gonna use steel in the end because the previously painted steel or the previously painted silver exhaust pipe
07:43
is gonna be running past that and I thought the contrast between steel and silver would be would look good right here if this was visible on the top side of the car I probably would have used chrome silver I'm using that Vallejo Brown again same way I used for the carpeting to paint these wooden panels
08:13
underneath I really could have used any color because these these pieces of wood would have been painted they wouldn't have lovingly stained them and varnished them like they would have for wood inside the vehicle this area here it would have been intended to preserve the wood as much as possible well I just thought it would look good painted Brown it would be a good
08:46
contrast to the blue of the metal parts so that's why I use the Brown here okay as you can see here I've put masking tape around the around the the running boards here there's actually supposed to be a chrome surround and then a rubber mat on the inside now I'm gonna try doing this just using some testers chrome silver which is probably
09:27
about the shiniest paint you're gonna get and if I'm happy with that I'm gonna leave it at that if if it's not shiny enough then it might bear model foil it will just have to see now I put the masking tape down because I figure even if I freehand it and get it super straight it'll probably be enough waiver
09:58
that I won't be happy with it whereas hopefully with the masking tape well have a nice straight edge and as always when you're gonna be painting something else you don't have to be really careful on this inner part because you're gonna be painting it black there next step will be painting those inner parts block and now I'm putting a second coat of
10:34
German gray on the running boards using German gray because sometimes I find using black for rubber makes that seem a little too intense sometimes it's a scale effect going 100 percent makes things too dark now we have a little chrome cover that's got to go in right here probably covers over
11:13
the battery box it's a deep box there in the fender well they've scraped it the paint that was on there and as well the plating on the bottom of this has been scraped off every test fit it so I know it's gonna fit in there there we go here I've glued the chassis to the under frame to the pan and basically right
11:49
here and right here and above the axle so the only spots that it really wants to make contact with that floor pan so that's where I've concentrated clearing off the paint putting some glue on and now I've got a clamped and closed pinned as you can see I get some weight here holding another part down take a look at it little while make sure that it's taken effect the front end is kind of floating but it's not like it's gonna go anywhere okay now we're gonna work on
12:23
the radiator we have a main body of the radiator there's a part that goes in behind like that gonna be painting this back bit steel and as well they have an optional part here on the front which they call the stone guard and they haven't fit it on the front on the front of the box and I think it looks pretty gnarly so I'm gonna use that part but
12:54
they say if you're gonna use this part there are some holes that need to be drilled out so we're gonna do that next okay the holes have been drilled out and we're past the point return now and have to use the stone guard and you can see some Brown right there and there where I've scraped away the chrome and that's to hold the back and radiator on so I put some glue on there
13:42
slide that in place looks like it could do with a little bit of pressure indeed clothespin just to make sure that it's gonna stay and what I'm doing right here is I'm putting a wash on the stone guard
14:16
and I find that most grills and front ends on model cars greatly benefit from this process once it dries it'll let it lighten up a bit from what you see here and the highlights of the chrome will still be bright and shiny but all of the
14:49
lower areas which really should be transparent anyway representing something darker in behind well you will look a lot better it'll give it a lot more depth I'll show it before and after picture after this now I'm tackling a radiator as you can see the the front I've put a wash on it to darken it up now the backside which
15:32
usually the the business side normally isn't quite as pretty even on something like a Packard who decided I'm gonna paint it all copper with the exception of just these edge pieces here I'll paint those steel and then I'm going to put on a fairly heavy wash to darken it up how correct this is gonna be I don't know but we'll see what it looks like when it's done all right now we're gonna
16:04
paint a little bit of steel just on the sides of the copper portion of the radiator just the parts that would have been used for support but you said I'm gonna put a dark wash on this that'll help to blend all this together and I'm gonna put the stone guard in front of the radiator it's just a little bit easier to use a couple dabs of superglue here rather than try to scrape all the plating off on these
16:44
parts this is a fairly low stress part so I'm not too worried about using super glue on it there we go I still have to put the wash on the back of it here I'm putting a wash on the back of the radiator just to give the copper a little bit more depth
17:15
and now I'm just test fitting one of these little brackets here there's three of these to go on each side of the car sharp-eyed viewers may have seen that there was three spots that were brown on the side of the frame before I assemble it I'd already pre scraped the plastic there so that I could glue them on now I'm just debating whether I'm gonna paint those semi-gloss black before I take them off the sprue and glue them in place I think that's what I might do but
17:50
I just took one off in advance just to see how well they were going to fit on there there's the part glued in place I glued it to the running board with superglue into the frame with just regular plastic model spent like I said I'm gonna paint the other one semi-gloss black before I trim them and put them in place I'm here I'm just painting up those brackets just makes life a little
18:17
bit less fiddly and I did not paint the attachment points hurry I'm putting the last of the running gear red the running board supports on I still had to touch that one up painted black but that was my test one to see it they were gonna fit okay okay well looking at some photos on the Internet of cars mainly because I was trying to
18:55
decide if I was going to bother putting wires into the engine compartment something I've never done before so of course I thought well we better see what the lawyers going to the spark plugs look like and as I was looking at those pictures I realized that our car doesn't have a distributor captain and looking on the instructions I saw that you know obviously the one that was on there came astray at some point during the last 30 odd years so I made one out of some little scraps of styrene and that critter is going to be installed right
19:26
there in that little hole okay we're getting ready to put the radiator on before we do that I'm just going to go over some of the work that's been done as mentioned earlier I've added to distribute your cap there I still haven't decided whether I'm going to put any wiring into this I'll do that probably once I get out all the body together if we flip it over you can see the running board supports are in place
20:03
the wheels are on but I can pop them off if I have to they're definitely not spinners they're very tight fit in preparation for gluing the radiator on I've scraped scrape the paint from this area here and doesn't quite sit level but it's not the end of the world as
20:34
well in preparation for gluing together at the radiator I've got the hood and I've got the body just so I can set those in so I can make sure that where I've got the radiator is everything else is going to be happy with that there's no point in putting the radio in and then putting the rest of the body together and I've got a huge gap I've decided I'm gonna use money to me a plastic model cement for gluing this in it is a solvent type cement just like
21:04
the testers and precision Polly there or flex the file actually that one is of the three types of solvent cement I have this one is the thickest I'm pretty sure it has a fair amount of styrene already dissolved in it the reason I want to use it for this is the fit isn't perfect so
21:39
I want I want something that has a little bit of body to it it's a slow setting cement so I'm also gonna have a fair amount of time to fiddle with it before it sets up hard which is fine so one of the things we want to ensure is that this is perpendicular to the frame and that it's square with the frame this
22:12
way and I'm gonna be using the body pieces to check that out okay hopefully nothing falls apart here you can see that it were pretty much closed the gap here and that we're pretty straight there so we'll want to make sure everything is happy and then we're just gonna let it set for a couple hours to dry okay the medium bloom has had a few
22:45
days to dry and as you can see I've got masking tape on around the trim it didn't mask this back piece here because the convertible top is gonna sit over top with that so if I make some mistakes it won't be too serious this area here I'm just going to end up free handing hopefully that turns out alright main thing is is while I was putting the masking tape on it took a piece off and it took some of the light blue paint off Oh No
23:16
so I'm gonna do the trim is gonna do up the trim take the tape off if more of the paint lifts off I'll try touching it up with a brush and then I'll try using some rubbing compound to blend it in if that doesn't work then I'll just have to you know start from square one and repaint it again although the silver paint that was on it did not have a really shiny finish on it it was fairly flat so I was hoping that
23:50
that would be an adequate base coat for this paint especially seeing as the old paint had been on there for thirty years okay the masking tape has been removed I'm not 100% happy with the results as I mentioned earlier some of the paint lifted off here from the masking tape I don't have to be retouched a little bit here tiny a little bit of bleed through
24:23
under the tape there so that will have to be retouched and then being as it'll be brush painted on I'll have to take some rubbing compound and smooth it out here's the hood and there's a little bit of lift off right there as well well the important thing is is the lines are nice and straight and they're fairly crisp just one small little bit here I'll have
24:55
to touch up but otherwise I think it was worth masking and putting the trim on this way alright this pretty much concludes part two I'm estimating that I have enough footage for part two as a recap the radiators been installed I finished painting the underside and I've got the running board supports on there the body has been painted still no
25:32
view touch-ups to do I'll see you next time on Dan's model works thanks for watching bye you

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