PPEI Shift On The Fly DSP5 Switch Install: Chevy Duramax LML

PPEI Shift On The Fly DSP5 Switch Install: Chevy Duramax LML

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Language: English

Type: Robot

Number of phrases: 359

Number of words: 2789

Number of symbols: 11124

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00:09
today we're doing a DSP 5 switch install on our 2014 Chevrolet LML now this is a PPE I switch installation and I mention that because certain tuners may use different pin out locations when it comes to where the actual switch pens go so I want to make sure that we clarify that this is the PPE I switch PPE I tuning that we're using for this now this DSP 5 switch for the L MLS from PPE I can be used for the EZ link application and their auto Calif
00:39
occations as well so let's go ahead and get started with our installation now the first step in our installation of our DSP 5 switch is to route the cable through the firewall now you're gonna want the pin out in to go through first obviously what I'll do with these before I put them through the firewall I will tape the conduit onto the wire if you've got conduit and I will use a piece of number-9 brace wire or what we call their farming terms but coat hanger whatever cut it 12 inches long I will electrical tape all that to it
01:22
and make it to where the wires cannot come off of the rigid wire will come in here and I do a little bit different than some of the other guys do this cover on this distribution block will remove it the push pin in the middle of it you've got to go ahead and and pull it out disengage it but the cover itself pull down for the bottom and that will give you access to this distribution block now what I do is I remove the distribution block on the side of it there's two little ears here you can pull the ears down and that will bring
01:53
the block down you can see that I know that's not very good lighting lift up and that lifts it out of its hitch here hard to do pull back lift up how the hitch this is going to give you access to a grommet in the back here I want to try to show that as best I can all right you can see that there are
02:42
some red and black aftermarket stereo wires going to a grommet right there that is the smaller of the two grommets on the outside of the truck that is the grommet I like to use I'll make a slid in it and then I will push my midget piece of wire with the ESP v switch wires out into the engine compartment and again this is going to be the smaller other two grommets here and I know that you cannot see that get a lot
03:16
here so that you can't see this grommet right here there's two single wires that are coming out of that I'm gonna fix those but that is the grommet where my little flashlight here that it's the grommet that I'm going to be working with I usually didn't know a lot of guys don't do it but that's the that's the one I prefer to work with so that's the one we're gonna go out of today I will route the wires and the conduit out in here to the engine compartment this is the ECM location right here where my light is moving back
03:58
and forth between the power steering pump this is the ECM location we're gonna show you how to take the yards off and get started from there as soon as we get the wires pulled through we've got our wires fished through the firewall so now we're ready to work at the ECM first step is disconnect your negative battery cables on both batteries next you're gonna take the shield off of the ECM right here there is a latch on the forward firewall side on the side here this shield serves no purpose other than to aggravate the hell out of me that's
04:30
alive because it probably serves a purpose so we take the shield off just like this you can see the little clip on it right there now I'm going to get our light in position for Adam and I so we can show you what we're doing here [Music] how's it look good all right now the connector that you will be working with is the connector closest to the firewall on the LMS there is a red locking tab on
05:17
this I use a 90-degree pick and get under the flat edge of the red locking clip and pull straight up just like that you can you heard it come unlock there then there is a bale trip for the connector and what you do is you push on the plastic on right above the red connector and then pull up on the bale
05:45
trip like so all right once you do that you continue to pull up on the bale and it will unlock the connector the ECM connector now we're going to wiggle this connector back and forth for about five minutes and grunt and groan and then eventually it will come loose all right we've got the connector out and what happens here is once the connectors out the connector is actually routed underneath of the power steering lines
06:21
right here so you've got to pull it out from underneath of the power steering lines and then she's she's good to go there so all right our first task is going to be to get the black plastic hood off of the connector itself it's got a couple of clips on it and we will show you those as we go along take your time here you're dealing with plastic stuff that's fragile and will break
06:54
especially if you're trying to do this on a Friday at five o'clock right before you walk out of work so do it on Thursday at 2:00 and you like to worry about this goes around and push on them like that and the backing will come off and that gives us access to get our push pins out now we're going
07:25
to work with getting this gray runner off on the connector itself this is very very fragile and before you work with it make sure that you don't have anything on your pick this is very fragile like I said I just go around the corners here and I will try to prise it out as it go
07:54
just getting it started and it takes a little while but again don't get carried away here there's no magic trick to this just keep working at it and eventually it will come up like so those four corners the notches in the plastic again we're going to be where you're working
08:29
mostly you can see these notches here here here here and that's where I'm prising from this keep rising up to it finally just gives up the ghost and there we have access to the Pens so now we are ready to get our pins out now on the 2011 LM LS there are it is different pin numbers for the switch but this is a
08:59
2014 truck so the 2012 to 2016 use pin number 11 and pin number 35 pin number 11 will be on this top row and you will count down to 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 and 11 the 11th hole was empty now P Pei sends a allen wrench to tighten the knob down luckily the allen wrench works perfectly here to push the black plastic pin out
09:32
so when you put the allen wrench inside of this holder make sure that you get it underneath of the catch which is on the top row there and then just simply push the black plastic pin out the top the little black plastic pin know if you'll be able to see it on my glove there that's what it looks like oh sorry Adams zoomed in on the plug so there's what the little black pin looks like so we got a living out and now we're going to 35 35 is the third row and that is
10:03
the third one over so this will be the first row the second row third row third row b12 and the third pin right here and we'll slide the allen wrench underneath the kitch I'm going to double check my math to make sure I'm stabbing the right hole yes sir I am it is the third third one from the top so we're going to
10:32
punch it here and then we'll just push until the pin falls out the back here there we go so now we have got the plug ready to accept the switch wire and what we will do now is we will route this around the yellow wire goes in the lowest number so that is pin number 11
11:07
so we'll kind of move everything around here so we can get it in now you want to make sure that you look at these pins on how they catch and how they need to go in the hole there so I know that for this to catch correctly the channel has to go down what I look at called the channel try to make sure that I explaining it to you the best way here but yes the channel does go what I consider the channel in the crimp goes
11:39
down so I'm going to insert that up just like that and then I'm going to simply push it till it clips and then pull back to make sure that I've got a good catch and I do so now I'll go after pin number 35 which is going to be the third row and the third row down so third row the third row down I know that the channel the hollow side of the connector goes up
12:09
we'll start that in and don't push it until it makes it all the way through and clips so there we go we've got both of our wires in the number 11 and 35 pin for the 2012 and up trucks what we're going to do there to clean this up just a little bit is we will zip tie this back to the connector itself and then we will go ahead and put our hood on just like we removed it we've got our
12:42
wire in our cover on our switch now all we need to do is get our gray plastic insert piece back in and again you're gonna want to be very careful with this just go ahead and start it back on the clip and push until she is seated like so so now what we're going to do is we're going to take the plug and we're
13:13
going to route it back under the power steering lines which stinks to do is what it is I told Adam I wanted to show this being done all right now at the ECM we just go ahead and get our connector on make sure that our safety clip is up and then
13:52
gently push down on the bail trip and push it until it clips and then push the safety catch down and you are ready to go at this time your DSP five wires you will route them and zip tie them as you go along into the truck get all the slack inside the cab just push it back through the grommet like that so that's what we're going to do here we're going to clean up this installation underneath of the hood and then we will run inside
14:23
of the cab so we couldn't cut from the under hood shenanigans without taking a moment to let you know that we do actually install our old friend mr. L I don't do a daggone thing shield here so I'll take a couple minutes out of my life and you know some of my IQ points now I'll slide this back onto the ECM cover and get down here and you know just just have a grand old time lining it back up to put it back on here for
14:56
absolutely no good reason oh yeah that's that's what we're gonna do she's back in her hole now everybody's happy we've got that guard because it's doing a lot to maintain the integrity of the entire engine so all right the under the hood shenanigans are almost done we will reinstall reattach however you want to say it the negative battery cables onto the battery then we are ready to move inside the cab to install the switch
15:31
[Music] before we install our switch what we want to do is we want to check to make sure for proper operations so once we're done outside underneath the hood the negative cables are about our back on the truck on the back of the PPE I switch you can hit this button and a LED light will light up the LED light lights up that means that the switch in CIL's installation is correct then you want to switch the tunes going down and as you go down the lights should go didn't get dimmer or go out so we know we got a good install here so good to go now
16:05
we're going to show you about preparing the this customer one of the lower dash panel for his switch install so we're going to show you how to prep for that so the nice thing about the PPI switches they've got a dial on them that will that will help to keep the switch centered wherever you choose to mount it and they send a drill template for you here you need an eighth inch drill bit and a 3/8 inch drill bit and what I do is I just put my template where I want it then I take a center punch and I will
16:36
I will just push on the center punch until I've got both of those spots marked and then I start with my 1/8 inch drill bit and use it first we'll drill excuse me I will drill my eighth inch hole first and then we use the eighth inch drill bit to start the pilot hole for the 3/8
17:17
then I will switch over to 3/8 drill the 3/8 hole and then take the dash panel into the truck all right now we're ready to go with our switch installation I think a 13 metric socket and remove the nut off of the switch when I remove it there are two washers underneath of here there is a washer that is used to hold
17:48
the switch stable you want to take it off the one underneath of here this needs to stay this is locked in the position for the 5 position switch I think the number that is on it is 5 yes that's correct so it's almost in line with the a of that alpha the switch may differ through the years but we're gonna go ahead and install this into the - now and we'll get our locking pin in there like that to hold it which is a very
18:19
nice feature of this then we will put our nut on here and I'll tighten that down and then we're going to go ahead and get our lower - panel locked in here see the previous shot I use the nut to pull the switch up in the - but what we're going to want to do there now and actually got a little bit ahead of myself is we're going to want to put our tag on here to show us where our position for our knobs go so we will
18:51
peel that off we're going to stick that on right there then we're going to go back and put our nut in our lock washer back on and then we're going to put our knob on and let me show you that the knob is pretty self-explanatory it has a set screw in it a PP includes the allen wrench for that set your knob at the one position if that's where you're at and lock it down so and it's a good thing because lost allen wrench good thing we've got some more oh alright guys if you got a question about
19:29
this installation or any of our other installations please give us a call like and subscribe to our Channel have a good day [Music] you [Music]

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